1952 M38 Rear Brakes

Scott21 · Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:07 pm Post subject: 1952 M38 Rear Brakes

I am guessing that I have to take off that monster bolt to pull the drum. Is the bolt inch and a half?

Scott

wesk · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 3:17 am Post subject:

It's a nut. You loosen it about four turns, back off the brake shoe adjustment, install monster hub puller and operate puller to break hub loose by tightening striker with hammer then smacking end of puller shaft sharply with hammer.

_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Bill_F · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:32 am Post subject:

if you are just pulling the drum you shouldnt have to remove the hub.

Scott21 · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:49 am Post subject:

Just pulling the drum

Bill_F · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:56 am Post subject:

The drum should slid off the hub, probably is just stuck, hit with some pb blaster or something similar.

Scott21 · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:06 am Post subject:

Bill

That is what I was thinking. I will give it a good shot. IAre the rear drums like the front drums?

Scott

wesk · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:09 am Post subject:

If you have very early axles you can certainly force the drum off the hub. But the 5 lug studs have a serrated shank that is swaged tightly to both the hub and the drum. When the drum and hub are seperated a new set of lug studs will then be required. You could of course just drive the 5 studs back out of the hub and pull 5 new ones back thru then install the drum and wheel and tighten the lug nuts to finish pulling the 5 studs up flush in the hub but you cannot complete the required swaging operation of the studs because the hub must be removed to do that. Not swaging the studs tightly in the assembled hub/drum set results in the drum being able to move slightly each time a forward or reverse load is placed on it. This will result in a constant loosening of drum around the studs which cause wear on the drum and the studs.. So it's your choice. Also be aware that early drums fit behind the hub and late drums fit in front of the hub. Also if your drum has the three counter sunk screws then all you need to do is remove those three screws and tap the edge of the drum while maintaining pressure against the rear edge of the drum.

Your first step in all of this should be read pages 281 & 282 in your TM 9-8012 Operation and Organizational Maintenance 1/4 Ton 4x4 Utility Truck M38 Wink

Most M38 and M38A1.

Early civvy brake setup

Late civvy brake setup.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Scott21 · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:13 am Post subject:

Thanks Wes

I have the three screrews and the hub will wiggle around the studs. I guess my question is , can I take the drum off to check the brakes with out pulling the hub.

Scott

Scott21 · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:30 pm Post subject:

Hey Wes

I cant get the pictures at work. Thanks

I got the drum off

Scott

wesk · Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:11 pm Post subject:

If you have the three screws then yes just remove the screws and tap the drum until it pops loose. On an axle with no screws the drum relies on the tight fit of the lug studs to keep things from banging loose.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Scott21 · Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:19 pm Post subject:

Wes and Bill

Thamks, I got the drums off and hope to be finished with the brake cylindars today

Scott


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