Transmission Hump

[12B]

I am replacing my rusted out M 38's floor. Have the individual replacement floor panels; However, it turns out there just isn't enough of the transmission hump to patch in between. . . Any ideas or suggestions?

[wesk]

This comes up about every other month. The only way to get the hump from the rear of the large tranny access panels to the bottom edge of the rear floor riser is to cut it from a used tub, buy a new tub or find an original Willys/Kaiser built front floor assembly.

If those options are not interesting to you then the only remaining possibility is to assemble what you have and hand form the remaining area at the hump.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[12B]

Thanks for the suggestions. That all seemed a little expensive. We wound up just cobbling together some scrap metal that was laying around. Considering I couldn't get the indentation for the axe (short of also buying a new tub) and then this piece. . . well, making it original isn't as appealing as it once was. Kind of too bad really. Going in I thought I was well off because overall there was not much rust. . . guess it was just in the wrong places! But it will be functional.

[restorationman]

I had this problem with my CJ3A front floor and hump. I purchased the seperate left-front and right front floor repair panels. Both of the sheet metal pieces are oversized at the hump junction, so you are supposed to hand form/roll the edges up to meet the hump rise. I also had to completly make the whole rear section of the hump behind the shift levers. I used a paper template taped together to make a pattern and traced it to a new piece of 18 gauge sheet metal which I cutout with a pair of electric shears, then made a wooden form with the right curves and angled slope to use as a form to hammer the sheet metal over with, to tuck in the curved/ bottle neck area, I had to use a sheet metal shrinker. It was a lot of work but after welding ,grinding, and filling in with a thin coat of body filler- you can't tell it was ever repaired!