Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 8:33 am Post subject: M38 front axle lubrication & battery questions
Hello; new to this Forum. I restored my ’51 M38 back in 1984-85 (won first in class at ’85 MVCC convention) and am now doing a refresh.
Question: What is the best lubricant for the front axle outer joints? I originally packed them in heavy grease, but have read opinions all over the map. I understand the original specifications called for 90W gear oil, but this would probably leak since the seals are a bit crude.
Question 2: I’ve controlled the leakage from both batteries and do not have any corrosion, and have two new, unused military batteries (dry). However, I want to use AGM batteries, that I use in my boats and most other applications. Does anyone know of the most compatible AGM (Optima or Sears Die Hard) battery from a form factor standpoint? I want to fit the battery trays and I presume width is the deciding factor, with the AGM being short in length.
I am just finishing up my 52' M38 and got the same thing on the front joints. Since mine had Rapeza's joints, when you use grease the grease will get slapped agints the side of the housing and not lubricate the joints. I used 140w on the advice of several Jeep guys and it has worked great. With new seals, a littlet heavier oil, everything is lubricated and nothing leaks. Good luck!
Any of the professed best lubes will work just fine for the axle knuckle components weather you have Zeppa, Bendix or tracta. The spicer requires hand packing with #2 chassis lube as do the steering pivot bearings (upper and lower). This is the most abused lube interval on the jeep. Every 4 to 6 thousand miles those knuckles, by design, were meant to be disassembled, cleaned and repacked by hand with #2 chassis lube. This hand packing is the ONLY way to insure adequate lube to the two steering pivot bearings and the spicer joint if you have them.
Those who then go one step further and hand pack the entire knuckle housing with #2 chassis lube are not doing themselves any favors. Especially those located in the colder climates where the grease thickens and decreases fuel mileage, increases rolling resistance in 4 WD and and turning resistance all the time. This was the lube standard though thru 1960 when Kaiser changed the manual lube charts to gear oil. But Kaiser still requires the initial 4 to 6 thousand mile cleaning and repacking of the steering pivot bearings with 3 2 chassis lube then after assembly of the knuckle add the gear oil. For those of you down in warmer areas you could stay with all #2 chassis lube or you could replace the gear oil with a much heavier off the shelf oil. The early ford Non-hypoid differential gear oil can be used. It is 600 weight. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Since we are not running with the axles locked in all the time, but only occasionally to lubricate the joints, is the 4 to 6k mile interval still recommended? _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
If you are running locking hubs in the free wheel position then you could stretch it out. Otherwise the knuckle is always turning . _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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