M38 Tub removal questions

SledDog · Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:03 pm Post subject: M38 Tub removal questions

I searched and read through some of the posts regarding tub removal. However, they didn't quite answer all of my questions so here goes.

I'd like to get this off frame this weekend and I've removed the front fenders, hood, seats, floor panels, windshield etc. All body to frame bolts have been removed as well as anything that might attach to the body from underneath. HOWEVER...I cannot get the darn steering wheel off...do I need to? If so, how without the special removal tool? Standard removal tools do not work.

Main question is do I need to, or should I, brace the tub? I have some rust issues in the hat channels and do not think they will keep the shape of the tub once off. I will need to replace them anyway.

What is the best method of bracing if that's the best way to go about this? I do have a welder although I suck at it.

Thanks!
_________________
-Steve
'52 M38 MC68149

OKCM38CDN · Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:00 pm Post subject:

If you cannot get the steering wheel off, for now why not remove the drag link from the steering and the pitman arm from the steering box then pull the 3 bolts holding the steering box to the frame and pull it up thru the floor...

That will allow you to pull the body off...

When I did my tub I did not do any bracing, but I only pulled a quarter panel at a time replacing that one before I moved on to the next one...

Hope this helps...
_________________
Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

That's the nice thing about the M38 where the front floor panels come off. I had no luck on the steering wheel either and ended up just taking whole assembly off as stated above after removing the panels. You'll be happier in the long run when you pull the tub as it will let you do a more thorough job.

I'd brace. I don't think you'll run into a problem so much with the hat channels replacement but if you get into replacing any flat sheet, things can go skew.
Brett
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

TomM · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:26 am Post subject:

Some removal tips here:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/tech/SteeringWheel.html

A long soaking of penetrating oil helps. Pullers can be made using heavy wood blocks with allthead.

SledDog · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:02 am Post subject:

Thanks for the tips!. I tried and tried to get the steering wheel off and it aint happenen'.
I'll remove the drag link but do I really need to remove the pitman arm as well?

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

Pitman arm doesn't need to come off. The draglink can be disco'd from just one end if you are trying to minimize work.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

pickle · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 2:11 pm Post subject:

there is some dicussion on the G503 forum that I found for a tub brace:

http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=105&t=140345

there was also some discussion on this form:

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4906&highlight=

SledDog · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:29 pm Post subject:

Thanks everyone, with your help, the tub is now sitting nicely on a couple of saw horses in the garage!

As stated earlier, I could not get the steering wheel off so I used your suggestion of removing the drag link from the pitman arm. The clearance posed a challenge but after a little work it fell free. The bolts on the steering gear to frame presented a new issue. Seized would be a nice term. Regardless, with a little heat, a breaker bar and some help from a reluctant neighbor, the entire unit was removed. I won't mention my neighbors insistence on having a first aid kit and fire extinguisher nearby.

Before I removed the tub, I did reinforce the mid section with a 57" long 2x4 and secured it with two bolts on each side. I also used 14ga 1x angle to secure the upper (open) end of the tailgate.

I may add some more bracing but over all, other than being a PITA, it worked out pretty well. Pics to follow after I get a good nights sleep.

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

I had a lot of trouble removing my steering wheel. I used a good puller, torqued it down and let it sit with break free. I kept tightening if everyday and even applied some heat (be careful or you will melt the plastic). One day it poped off when I tightened it. Got lucky I guess.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

SledDog · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:23 am Post subject:

Here's a few pics:

Jim · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:33 pm Post subject:

Be sure and give that neighbor a ride when you
get everything back together and conducted a
couple of test drives.

Jim in Darkest Arkansas

Matt · Member Joined: Feb 11, 2012 Posts: 4 Location: Ithaca, NY

Looks like the body is good and solid!

jimm · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 4:05 pm Post subject:

Now the fun begins!

A neighbor that cautious probably wouldn't want to go for a ride in a "dangerous" 60 year old vehicle Wink

Sounds like just the opposite of some of my neighbors.
_________________
Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts


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