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Texbillhs Member
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Joined: Apr 25, 2012 Posts: 134 Location: Pennsylvania -Avondale/Kennett Sq
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 5:49 pm Post subject: studs for unversal joint |
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Does anyone have a drawing or photo of the handbrake drum and the 4 studs for the universal joint mounting? I was checking found one of my hex nuts loose - went to tighten and the stud just spins - tried backing off and it spins . I thought maybe it is a bolt, but if so I can't get to the head end. Then I am guessing it is a stud and it must be one like a wheel stud - reason if it was like a engine block stud, with the nut frozen I should be able to back it out - it just spins. I am guessing it has a v flat head and knurled shaft and was pressed in from the other side of the drum. The knurl is gone and it spins. It is 1/8" from being tight so I wrecked a vise grip, ground it down it 1/8", got it in behind the nut, but I took too much temper out grinding, the tool wouldn't hold. I am going to try again with another pair (good thing there is a cheap Harbor Freight) and if I can back the nut off the plan is to double washer and hope I can snug it up on the good threads. _________________ 1952 M38 |
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capescw Member
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Joined: May 14, 2012 Posts: 150 Location: Milford CT
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:22 pm Post subject: Bolts? |
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Every document I have indicates a 3/8-24 bolt and nut! Why not pull the drum off and make your tool replacement (Harbor F) costs go away? ![Very Happy](modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) _________________ "Frugality keeps me in the Game"
1952 M38 Project "Lazarus"
1951(?) M100 Trailer
1956-60 USAF Special Weapons Program
http://www.bill-capes.com/insanity - Updated 04/26/14 |
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wesk Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16299 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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Yes it is a bolt but you won't get the drum off until you clean the crud from the heads of the 4 bolts between the back plate and the transfer case and get a long wrench on the bolt heads and remove the nuts.
Had you read thru the removal and installation directions in the TM 9-8012 you would have seen that they are bolts and are called that in Par C(2) of the installation directions. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Texbillhs Member
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Joined: Apr 25, 2012 Posts: 134 Location: Pennsylvania -Avondale/Kennett Sq
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:10 am Post subject: TM |
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The only picture I found is Fig 31 on page 123 - shows a "companion flange" - sure would be nice to have exploded drawings. I'd like to find a TM9-8012 on paper someday. Anyway the next day I have to work I'll see if I can get a wrench behind that flange. I looked to be right up tight to the drum with no space between. There is a sump on the drum - it was hard enough to get the vise-grip in behind the nut, let alone get a wrench behind the flange. Thanks - now I know what to go after. _________________ 1952 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16299 Location: Wisconsin
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Texbillhs Member
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Joined: Apr 25, 2012 Posts: 134 Location: Pennsylvania -Avondale/Kennett Sq
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:22 pm Post subject: thanks |
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The next day I have free to mess with it I'll drop the skid plate and get up back of that plate - This forum is worth its weight in gold - Thanks
As I travel swap meets I will be looking for a TM9-8012 and shop manuals. I do have a TM9-8012 PDF (after many tries to download), the computer is up in the office and the jeep is down in the shop - paper is best. _________________ 1952 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16299 Location: Wisconsin
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jimm Member
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Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 201 Location: Escondido, CA
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:13 pm Post subject: manual sources |
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Army Jeep Parts, Debellas, Midwest Military, and Walck's also carry most or all of the M38 manuals, and Walck's has the CJ manual that Wes often recommends. Handy to know if you are also going to be ordering parts. _________________ Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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wesk Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16299 Location: Wisconsin
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MODIFIED Member
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Joined: Mar 28, 2008 Posts: 353 Location: BrOoKlYn
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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:07 am Post subject: |
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The following were disassembled from an original 38A1 trans case.
- pics are in order of assembly:
[/img] _________________ Always Looking for M170 Parts and bits ![Wink](modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif)
Last edited by MODIFIED on Tue Aug 14, 2012 11:05 am; edited 1 time in total |
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wesk Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16299 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:20 am Post subject: |
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Not shown in that series of photos were the companion flange attaching hardware (3/4" nut and washer) which would be hidden beneath the rear drive shaft's front yoke section.
To remove the driveshaft you simply remove the four nuts while holding the bolt heads.
To remove the drum you must first remove the 3/4" nut and washer that retains the companion flange. Then pull the companion flange which if it was installed correctly will still have RTV in it's splines that make pulling it a wee bit difficult. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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MODIFIED Member
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Joined: Mar 28, 2008 Posts: 353 Location: BrOoKlYn
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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 11:05 am Post subject: |
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woops, just added the pic with 3/4" nut and washer placement _________________ Always Looking for M170 Parts and bits ![Wink](modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif) |
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