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idiocrates Member
Joined: Nov 02, 2007 Posts: 437 Location: Seguin, Texas
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:32 am Post subject: Proper Sequence |
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I'm getting real close to finishing up making all the old rust, paint, and bondo disappear from the tub of my m38a-1. Since I am going to be doing some pretty extensive.....well, extensive for me.....repairs I was wondering if you guys could look at my list and see if I'm planning this in the proper sequence or if I need to re-order things.
Step 1: Cut away the old rocker panel on the driver's side and replace it with a repair panel from Classic Enterprises.
Step 2: Cut away the old rocker panel on the passenger's side and replace it with a repair panel from Classic Enterprises.
Step 3: Cut away the old driver's side floor pan and fuel sump and replace with a floor pan repair panel from Midwest Military.
Step 4: Cut away the old passenger's side floor pan and tool box and replace with a floor pan repair panel from Midwest Military.
Step 5: Remove the old front to rear riser and replace with a new riser from Classic Enterprises.
Step 6: Install a new fuel sump in the driver's side floor pan from Midwest Military.
Step 7: Install a new tool box and lid on the passenger side floor pan. (supplier yet to be determined)
Step 8: Remove old rear floor panel and replace with a new rear floor pan from Classic Enterprises.
Step 9: Remove and replace the driver's side rear wheel house with a new wheel house from Classic Enterprises.
Step 10: Remove and replace the passenger's side rear wheel house with a new wheel house from Classic Enterprises.
Step 11: Remove and replace the rear tail gate panel with a new tail gate panel from Classic Enterprises.
Step 12: Install new front hat channels from Midwest Military.
Also.....has anyone tried any of the rust prevention products from Eastwood......like Rust Converter or Rust Encapsulator? Are these products worth the extra effort or does a really good paint job offer just as much protection?
Any and all comments are greatly appreciated.....thanks. _________________ Jim
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'?? - M38A-1 |
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Beacher425 Member
Joined: May 16, 2010 Posts: 59
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:37 am Post subject: |
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I am using POR15 products and am very satisfied with the ease of use and results so far. I'll post again in 10 years conserning its rust blocking properties . |
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idiocrates Member
Joined: Nov 02, 2007 Posts: 437 Location: Seguin, Texas
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 11:05 am Post subject: |
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So did you use the three step method....using the Marine-Clean and the Prep & Ready pre-cleaners with the POR15? I've been comparing this method to the Eastwood method but being a total rookie I haven't decided yet which way I'm going to go....so given my forward progress to-date....that offer to let me know in 10 years or so might be right on the mark! _________________ Jim
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'?? - M38A-1 |
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Beacher425 Member
Joined: May 16, 2010 Posts: 59
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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I used the 3 POR products. some of the results are on this youtube slideshow http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDi4u_z9t4E
I have ordered their topcoat (flexcoat) to use on the floorboards and undersides.
there are youtube videos of people using POR15 and Eastwood has great instructional videos for their products on thier website. |
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timrod Member
Joined: Dec 11, 2006 Posts: 55
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Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:50 pm Post subject: por 15 |
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I can leave my gas tank cap off and you can ask it how the por15 has held up for 4 years !!!!!! It looks like it did when i put it in the tank ,i also sprayed the out side with what was left over . I also bead blasted it inside and out in my cabinet blaster and then solider up the bottom 12x12 hole that was rusted out !!!! |
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aforests Member
Joined: Oct 06, 2014 Posts: 252 Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen
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