Joined: Nov 22, 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Ft. Sheridan, IL
Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:39 pm Post subject: Ready to start working on my new A1
Hello to all. I am new to this site and hope to learn alot from each and every one of you. I am currently serving in the US Army and owning a vintage Army Jeep has always been a dream of mine. I finally returned home with my baby, a 1952 M38A1, SN. 11741. She is probably 98% complete, and is going to be a blast to restore, especially since she is in such good shape. I will post pictures when I figure out how to do it. A couple of questions for everyone: I don't know how long it has been sitting, and need to know everything I should do to prep it for an attempted start. I will have new dual 12v batteries, as they will be ordered this weekend. Any help anybody can provide would be great. Next question: Does anybody have a list or document that covers the restoration from pulling her into the garage, to driving her out? I know she was an Army Jeep as the original hood markings are starting to surface in my wet sanding attempts. The driver side also uncovered "MILITARY POLICE" on the original paint. Does anybody have any idea how to track what unit she might have served with, as I will be restoring her to her original unit condition. Thanks to all ahead of time and I look forward to conversing with you.
SFC Andrew Kunert
US ARMY _________________ ___________________________
You have a leg up on a lot of us. You were already in the Army and understand their unit labeling abreviations. The Army did not keep records on wheeled vehicles after they were disposed of. So the only way to track a jeep's history is through it's painted markings. Takes a lot of elbow grease on wet sanding the bumperettes, bumper, lower windshield surface, and anywhere else you suspect markings may be.
No stem to stern, start to finish guide written yet.
Steps may read like this:
1-Acquire the jeep. Be sure to garner as much data and parts and history as the prior owner will surrender.
2-Acquire the following manuals as a minimum:
a-TM9-8014 Operators Maintenance manual
b-TM9-8015-1 Ordnance Maintenance Engine & Clutch
c-TM9-8015-2 Ordnance Maintenance Body and running gear.
d-ORD 9 SNL-G-758 M38A1/M170 Parts manual
Keep these manuals handy and start browsing thru them regularly.
In addition to these always keep your eye open for the many manuals listed on our group's M38A1/M170 technical manual listing.
3-Obtain a digital camera, a file drawer or cabinet, a stack of manilla folders, several looseleaf binders, writing paper, computer, pencils (pens do not allow mistakes), a box of small 1 or 2" white hard paper tie-on ID tags, a box of pint and gallon size zip lock bags, and felt tip pens.
4-Set aside or buy some storage shelves and gather up as many assorted size cardboard boxes as you can find.
5-Print the system numbering index pages from your ORD 9 and post copies at your desk, your computer, the shop wall and etc, Learn and use this numbering system as you start tearing your jeep down. Use it on the ID tags, the boxes and the shelves.
6-Perform a thorough inventory inspection of your jeep. Use your parts book to insure you ID all missing or damaged parts. Use those Army system numbers on your notes. Leave no small stone unturned!
7-Now open your TM 9-8014 to page 20 and follow Paragraph 9 before attempting to start the jeep. Take special note of Table III on page 74.
8-Plan your work and work your plan. IE determine where you will start and when and write it down . Build your own schedule and try to stick with it but don't let it run your life. If you feel it's time to speed up or slow down change the plan as you see fit. Remember this is your plan, your jeep and you are suppose to be having fun with this project.
9-Nothing should be disabled, dissassembled or torn down until it has been inspected and tested for operation and condition. This helps you make more sound judgements in your scheduling and spending chores. For example do not pull the drive train components until you have test driven the jeep and recorded the condition of each unit. The tranny for example should be checked while driving for shifting, bouncing out of gear noises and etc. Thoroughly ops check the brakes and steering.Once your test drives are completed you will want to perform some additional tests on the engine before it is removed recording all results.. As a minimum do a compression test, a vacuum gage analysis, a volt and amp check of all operating electrical components, dynamic timing check of engine distributor checking both initial timing and insuring the governed advance system works. Again record all findings. Do not trust your memory.
10-With all testing complete it's almost time to roll up your sleeves and start tearing her apart but wait a moment! Get that camera and photograph every inch of the jeep, top, bottom, outside, inside making all photos overlap the last and the next. File these in your computer using the Army system numbering. Burn a CD or DVD of your photos to carry with you.
11-Start your order log. Take a one inch looseleaf binder and insert several blank order log pages. Write everything you buy or order in here.
12-This is now the time to organize the shop a little. You'll need a floor jack, a bottle jack, four jack stands, a cherry picker (would be nice or a chain hoist or block & tackle), an engine stand, plastic buckets, plastic drain pans for oil and axle lube, a good set of standard handtools (complete with full 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive socket sets with shallow and deep sockets), a 1/2" impact wrench (would be nice), a star type lug wrench, rags (often called shop towels),
seedy dry for spills on the floor, first aid kit, several sizes of plastic/nylon wire ties, flourescent drop lights, a small 3 horse/ 30 gal air compressor,
a pneumatic die grinder (often called a hi-speed or cutoff tool), a good set of drill bits, cut-off discs and grinding burrs, a good set of punches/chisels/drift pins, a couple of sizes of small gear pullers, a bearing seperator, an 18" and 30" crow bar, an acetylene torch set w/bottles (would be nice. or at least a Mapp gas torch), and whatever else you can get your hands on cheap! Make sure you have the phone number of the nearest tool rental shop also. It helps to stop in there ahead of time and introduce yourself.
13-Now pick a starting point and carry your parts book, service manual, tools, plastic bags, wire ties, ID tags and a couple of rags to your place of business!
This should keep you busy for the coming month! _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Nov 22, 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Ft. Sheridan, IL
Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:21 pm Post subject: Thanks for the help so far!
WES and RYAN,
Thanks for the words of encouragement thus far, as any positive encouragement will definitely help with this process. I guess the first thing I need to ask for is a spot in the gallary to post all of my pictures and keep every body updated on my progress. Do you also have a quick set of instructions for posting the pics. Thanks again.
Next question is in reference to the engine. I have the shop ready, and everything is in place to start the hard work.
Wes, in reply to your post: I have the manuals, the camera, the disassembly organization in place, and a brief missing parts inventory taken (which isn't much). I am ready to start para. 9, but before I do, I'm pretty sure there is a couple of things I should do before hand. The gas tank is empty, but should I remove it, have it cleaned and sealed? Gas lines? Should I replace them all while I'm at this point?(they will be replaced during the course of the resto, either way) Anything need to be done to the carb? (not the original, Carter YF) Radiator need to be removed and cleaned and sealed as well? Oil appears to be up to level, in good condition. (no water seems to be present) Distributor? Points removed and cleaned? New batteries and spark plugs here. Plug cables present, but appear to be original. Not sure if I have overlooked anything, but any help is greatly appreaciated. I would really like to get this thing started before I start the disasembly and restoration, so I know what I am working with and can evaluate each step clearer. _________________ ___________________________
Hello Andrew,
I've corrected my numbering system above.
Quote:
9-Nothing should be disabled, dissassembled or torn down until it has been inspected and tested for operation and condition. This helps you make more sound judgements in your scheduling and spending chores. For example do not pull the drive train components until you have test driven the jeep and recorded the condition of each unit. The tranny for example should be checked while driving for shifting, bouncing out of gear noises and etc. Thoroughly ops check the brakes and steering.Once your test drives are completed you will want to perform some additional tests on the engine before it is removed recording all results.. As a minimum do a compression test, a vacuum gage analysis, a volt and amp check of all operating electrical components, dynamic timing check of engine distributor checking both initial timing and insuring the governed advance system works. Again record all findings. Do not trust your memory.
The above is a very important step. I think you understand that. It can be a real PITA to get her back together and then discover a malady that requires some new level of dis-assembly.
You can pull the fuel tank service port screen all the way out and examine the interior of the tank. If it looks clean use the fuel pump to pump a sample of gas into a clear container so you can be sure the plumbing is good and gas is clean then press on with starting her up and doing all the required tests. The tank will come out during the resto process and then you can decide what you want to do. I am very old fashioned on this topic. Attempts at home brew sealers and tank linings will usually end up a year or so later peeling off and plugging up the system. If the tank has no rust inside and looks clean and delivers clean fuel then "It's not broke so don't fix it". Now if the gas tank is rough inside then let it sit and use a temporary tank (like a boat tank) to do the testing phase.The radiator condition will be determined during the test program.
Another point often overlooked is an accurate operational check of the electrical and instrument systems. Again it's a real PITA to get her all together and then find out that the generator is not generating, the starter switch is corroded inside and causing a current draw and a couple of the gages or senders aren't working. Make sure you have a quality digital volt-ohm meter and the Army test lead adapter set.
The correct YS950S carb is not a difficult one to find. If the jeep runs well save the YF for future troubleshooting needs. Fill it's bowl with a very thin oil and seal it up in a plastic bag.
Two things that can cause a project to get stale and make you loose interest are long delays and redoing work that should have been done correctly the first time and spending too much money. The first two items are easy to correct. The money issue can only be kept under control by be very selective of what, when and where you buy. Patience is the ultimate key here. This is why it is very importnat to have a very complete list of needed items very early on. This list stays close to you for the entire project because you will patiently wait for inexpensive good deals and when they appear you must be ready with list in hand to insure the good deal is the correct part you need. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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