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Balvar24 Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:27 am Post subject: |
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I'm thinking maybe a Harbor Freight Tarp. One could be had for $20 $30. I've got one now over my m416 holding up about 5-10 gallons of water. The most pressure that a 4' deep tank would see would be around 1.7 PSI. If I spaced 8' long 2x4's on 2' centers, the most force seen would be no more than around 30 lbs. I'm intrigued. I may try some fenders first. I've got some scraps that I can build a tank frame out of. I'll keep you posted. |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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I just pull and cleaned my T90 case out last night. Wow again.
If you've got an area in the yard, dig a hole and line it with plastic. Just keep any kiddies away! When done poke holes in the liner (if you don't care about it), let it drain into the soil, remove the plastic and backfill. Could be a lot of work for a tub sized hole though.
Here is a guy that built a tank to do a trailer frame.
http://www.antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm |
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Balvar24 Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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The trailer thing looked pretty neat. Looks like if you aren't careful, you'd be better off putting the money towards soda or sandblasting. |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Balvar24 Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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nice |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, clean enough for a kitchen table center piece. |
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1744 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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it'll be a shame to paint it huh?? _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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SFCKUNERT Member
Joined: Nov 22, 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Ft. Sheridan, IL
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Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:06 pm Post subject: Electrical rust and paint removal |
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Is anybody still doing this? _________________ ___________________________
MSG Andrew Kunert
US ARMY
52 M38A1, 00 Jeep Wrangler
http://andrewsm38a1.blogspot.com/ |
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billybob Member
Joined: Apr 20, 2011 Posts: 254 Location: mid missouri
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Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 7:17 pm Post subject: wow!electrolyic rust removal |
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sfckunert I tried it on My gas tank for several hours and it did a fairly good job. After that I tried the molasses method for about two weeks. Then I rinsed it and poured in about a gallon of small gravel and about a gallon of the molasses mixture. I then made a jig to mount it to my concrete mixer and let it run for about an hour in various positions. I know it sounds like a lot of work but I was VERY pleased with the results. After I rinsed it good with soapy water and dried it GOOD I gave it a coat of "red kote" sealer and as I've already said I'm very happy with the results. U-tube has lot of videos on molasses rust removal. I got the molasses at my local feed store. They are the type made for cattle feed. Mine cost about $1.50 per gal. Don use too small of gravel because there are too many places for it to hang up making it harder to get it out of the tank. Now I know. |
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DMCarpenter Member
Joined: May 28, 2007 Posts: 97 Location: Denver, NC
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Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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I made a tank out of the big plastic containers with a wire cage around it that chemicals come in. I cut the top off. I can get fairly sizable pieces in there. The pictures I saw above with rebar in 2x4's mounted give me an idea to improve mine. It does work well. |
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jimm Member
Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 201 Location: Escondido, CA
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Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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I have experimented with both, and have found that sheet steel for the anode works much better than rebar because there is so much more surface area. With rebar, the anode becomes the limiting factor in the speed of the process, plus the crud builds up on it really fast because the action is concentrated. Consider that an inch of 3/8" diameter rebar has just over 1 sq. inch of surface area; four pieces gives you under 5 sq. inches per inch of length. Whereas a piece of sheet steel lining a 5 gallon bucket gives you somewhere around 30 sq. inches per inch of depth (I don't count the back side of the sheet) and much more uniform exposure for the cathode (part being de-rusted). Any thickness of plain carbon sheet metal (not galvanized!) that you can shape will work, but thicker will last longer. A local sheet metal fabricator may have scraps that they will just give you. Junk automotive panel steel will work, too. _________________ Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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SFCKUNERT Member
Joined: Nov 22, 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Ft. Sheridan, IL
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Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:52 am Post subject: |
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Great point. I tried this process over the weekend with the rebar and an exhaust manifold with great results. I'll try ton get some pictures of my setup and the results tonight. In going to try the sheet metal method this weekend. _________________ ___________________________
MSG Andrew Kunert
US ARMY
52 M38A1, 00 Jeep Wrangler
http://andrewsm38a1.blogspot.com/ |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Works great doesn't it? I haven't had to de-rust anything for a while but it's a nice tool to have available. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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Balvar24 Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191
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Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:33 am Post subject: |
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I'm always afraid I'm going to burn the house down. |
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