Got it running now need to stop it

russ · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2011 Posts: 6

How do I remove front drum on 1957 m38a jeep. Removed large nut under center cap but hub would not move. I am a newbie to the site. wanted to send a pic but not having much luck. Sorry[/img]

wesk · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:50 am Post subject:

Some front axle shafts had a threaded end and a nut and cotter pin. The brake drum/hub assembly is retained on the spindle by a very large pair of nuts and a tabbed washer. I would suggest you download a free copy of the TM 9-8014 and follow the instructions. You will need to get a front hub socket wrench. If you have actually already removed both the very large nuts and lock tab washer then your brake shoes are holding the drum. You must adjust the shoes to less contact with drum.

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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

russ · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2011 Posts: 6

When I remove the hub cap in the front wheel hub I have a large axel nut with a cotter pin thru a threaded shaft . Under that nut is a flat washer and then the flange assembly with the nuts and bolts in it. Maybe I have a different front axel? (1957 M38a( or maybe A1) (rounded fenders)[/b]

wesk · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:23 pm Post subject:

No not different. Read the manual carefully with the parts blowup in front of you. Now you pull the bolts out of the drive flange and it slides off the end of the axle. Now look inside the hub. You'll see the tip of the axle inside the tip of the spindle. You'll also see a 2 1/16" nut. It will have a washer edge bent over it. Tap the edge of that washer straight. Unscrew that nut and remove that nut and the washer behind it. Now screw the second big nut out. Now you should see your outer hub bearing. Slide the hub/drum assembly off catching the bearing.

Before you do all of this be sure to have the right tools and book in front of you. You can buy that 2 1/16" socket wrench at any auto parts store. (Not Walmart).
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

oilleaker1 · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:33 pm Post subject:

That sounds like a rzeppa WW2 axle. Does the bellcrank pivit on the axle housing, or up above on the cross tube? I suppose you might be able to fit the WW2 axles in a CJ housing though. To remove the hub after taking that nut off the end of the axle, remove the ring of bolts by the hubcap and the flange will pull off with a paper gasket between . Then you will see the big nuts and lock washers that Wes talked about. That is where the big socket gets used. 2 sets of nuts with a outer lock tab washer and then a thrust keyed washer against the outer wheel bearing. It will be a mess of oil and grease. I get a whole roll of paper towels and dig all you can out with your finger and wipe it off into the towels. You need a manual for your Jeep that shows this. I'm in the middle of this with my M38. Yuk------mess. Shocked

John( PS you may need to bend a tab on the lock washer away from the big nut, that's the way it is supposed to be. Put it back that way for sure.)

wesk · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 5:17 pm Post subject:

The threaded end Bendix and Rzeppa were early WWII and CJ. The non-threaded end Bendix and Rzeppa were later CJ and M38/M38A1. Then even later the Spicer joint came out and any of them can be made to work in any of the model 25 front axle assemblies.

Bushings, shim procedures and turning radius vary depending on which you install. The M38 and M38A1 manuals only describe the procedure for the non-threaded axles. If you have a threaded axle you need to use the civilian early CJ manual (SM-1002) to assemble and adjust the axle and the drive plate correctly.

Rzeppa is pronounced Cheppa.

Again I say download the M38A1 manuals for free from our downloads page. Then get a copy of the CJ manual SM-1002. Turner 4WD and Portrayal Press both sell reprints. Ebay often has originals for sale.

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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

oilleaker1 · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 5:47 pm Post subject:

That adjustment procedure for the threaded axles must be important cause if I turn my MB too sharp, I hear things making contact up front, and turn the wheel less and it goes away. I'll get back into the manual and read. Thanks, John

russ · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2011 Posts: 6

Thanks wes. After looking at the manual and getting all your good advice I decided what the Heck and got out the puller. The drive shaft flange pulled right off and the rest was easy. As expected w/cyl was frozen and nothing left of shoe material. Guess the next adventure if im getting fluid to the wheel will be w/cyl and brake lines. Aint this fun. THANKS again. Old Russ

russ · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2011 Posts: 6

Thank you to Oil Leaker One Pre she 8 it Old Russ


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