U joints

[Deadguy]

I want to replace my U-joints. I have no idea how long the old ones have been there, and I lost a driveshaft on one of my previous jeeps do to a ujoint coming apart (it did have a lift tho, which probably exacerbated the problem).
They range in price from $10 from Rapco, to close to $80 from Morris 4x4 (although those are probably super heavy duty ones for lifted vehicles). Any opinions on what I should get?
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1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com

[danrothe2001]

Spicer part number 5-153X. Don't buy into the super duty non greasable ones. Install them so that the grease zerk is in compression while driving and they will be just as strong. We sell them where I work for $15.00 each. Unless you are concerened about show points and need NOS joints.

Dan

[donthedickens]

[danrothe2001]

Imagine the driveshaft in the vehichle and twist it. The twisting action should close the hole for the grease zerk, not open it.

Dan

[donthedickens]

[Bretto]

Makes sense to me. Detemine which way the driveshaft rotates when the vehicle drives forward. Put the zirk hole ahead of the bearing caps of this motion. Also make sure they are pointed the right way to make it easy to get a grease gun in there as sometimes the zirks are angled.
-Brett
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

[artificer]

I think someone needs to post a picture or two as the previous words do not explain adequately.
If I did not know how, the words just don't cut the mustard.
_________________
John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND

[kenperkins]

http://www.1943mb.com/n-28-G503_WWII_Jeep_U_Joint_Drive_shafts.aspx


this may explain it
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'51 M38 #22936,
'51 M100 Dunbar
#01164782
'53 M100 Dunbar
M416b1
2- M762
MVPA #11788
MVCC LIFER

[Bretto]

Ya, pics are worth a thousand words they say. If no one chimes in with a pic on the hole placement, I will do it later. I dont have time right now. Ken's link shows how to properly point them for greasing but doesnt point out the placement for strength.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

[artificer]

A couple of points about the link....it should not be necessary to use hammers on the cups when pulling apart & never when assembling.

All you need is a good vyce & a set of sockets to press the assy's apart.

Remove zerks before p[ulling appart & note where the grease nipples are if theuy were working properly....compare with new joints to ensure they are made the same & in correct alignment....often they are not!

Just ensure after assy & the circlips are in place that you place the shaft eyes over the vyce jaws & that is when you use the hammer, to ensure all bearing cups are out against the circlips & thus centralised.

Lastly fit the grease nipples & give a squirt then wipoe away excess grease.
_________________
John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND

[Bretto]

Say this is the axle end. If the rotation to drive the drive the axle forward is the same as the yellow arrow, then this will theoretically close up the zirk instead of opening it up. This is all relative to the power or receiving end. The other end of this shaft would have the zirk on the other side since it would be receiving power in.

_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

[donthedickens]