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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Using a tow dolly to pull an 'a1
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Using a tow dolly to pull an 'a1
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:36 pm    Post subject: Using a tow dolly to pull an 'a1 Reply with quote

I read a couple of posts about a tow dolly, but nobody said whether it is a good idea or not. I know I would have to disconnect the rear driveshaft. I was a little worried about the low gearing on the jeep - would that be a problem being pulled at 60-65mph? I want to go to an HMV show next month - pulled behind the RV. It will be about a 300 mile round trip.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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Oldsalt
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Joined: Jan 28, 2010
Posts: 179
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many jeeps have been towed long distances, but my personal belief is that you'd be better off putting it on a trailer.

This is my personal favorite, but it is custom made. You can rent a small flatbed car carrier if you don't have one.

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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I like that - different. My brother has a car hauler, but the tires aren't in great shape, so spending $300 - $400 it's out on that idea. Plus, it would be a little heavy behind my (class c) RV. I am guessing about 4000# for trailer and jeep.

I own a tow dolly, thats why I was wondering about the gear ratio thing - wouldn't cost anything except a little extra gas. The weight would be real good at about 3200# too.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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whydahdvr
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Joined: Jul 18, 2008
Posts: 645
Location: Melrose, MA and Santa Fe, NM

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, thinking of your plans to trailer your M38A1 - for my M38 I've used the 6x12 open trailer from UHaul with zero issues. A buddy of mine with an MB used the same thing for 5-7 years until he bought a trailer. It's about $30/day, the tailgate will flop down and make a kind of ramp that you can drive right up, and it holds the jeep right in place.
Caveat: I haven't checked the dimensions and weight on an M38 vs. M38A1 so you might want to do that. Otherwise, shouldn't have any problems. I've trailered my jeep with this 2-3 times last year upwards of 100 miles with no issues. Something to consider....
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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that's an idea. $30/day isn't too bad. Those trailers are aluminum too, aren't they? If so, even though they are built heavy duty, it shouldn't weigh that much. The guy I work with said he paid $50/day (at U-haul) for a tow dolly, so I figured a trailer would be at least double that.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16371
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flat towing (all 4 jeep wheels on the ground)
1 - Up to 55 MPH for up to about 500 miles with the transfer in neutral will result in very minor wear on the transfer. This wear can be eliminated by simply installing free wheeling hubs on the front axle and disconnecting the rear end of the rear drive shaft.
2 - Up to 70 MPH with free wheeling hubs on the front axle and disconnecting the rear end of the rear drive shaft.

Car tote pulling. (two wheels on the ground)
1 - Up to 55 MPH for up to about 500 miles with the transfer in neutral will result in very minor wear on the transfer.
2 - Up to 70 MPH disconnecting the rear end of the rear drive shaft.
3 - If steering is good and tight up to 55 MPH for up to 500 miles with the rear wheels on the car tote and the front wheels on the ground with free wheeling hubs.

Trailer hauling. (all 4 wheels off the ground)
Whatever the trailer is rated at.

WARNING: These suggestions are assuming a very solid and roadworthy jeep!

I learned my lesson years ago on traveling to pick up a used or project jeep with anything other than a large car trailer. Wink
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php


Last edited by wesk on Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good Wes! I was planning on disconnecting the rear driveshaft if I got the go ahead from the forum about the dolly. I usually drive the RV around 60 to save gas, so that should be fine. So what do you do, tie the driveshaft up to the frame or something? Thanks for the info!
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wesk
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zip lock bag and tape it or just tape it up with the caps on the "U" joint and tie it to the frame. Bag the hardware and put it in the glove box.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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wilfreeman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool - I might have to hook her up to the truck and take her for a short trip for a trial.

Thanks Wes
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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mx360guy
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Joined: Mar 10, 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all, I am a newbie to the site and living the dream of owning an old jeep. I would need to flat tow my 1954 M38A1 behind an 1985 24' Class C RV. Would I need a brake assist system or is a tow bar good enough to pull a jeep? Would the tow bar attach to the bumper where the shackles are mounted or is there some additional hardware needed?

Very cool site, I have a ton of questions.. Very Happy
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your jeep will tow fine without any brake assist. The key to it following you properly when flat towing is the condition of the steering and the geometry of the tow bar connections. The towing ball should always be equal height or higher than the bar connection point on the jeep. Since the bumper shackles are the most convenient point to attach the bar to the jeep it stands to reason that adjusting the ball height is the easiest solution to attaining the correct relationship between the two.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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mx360guy
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Joined: Mar 10, 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks alot for your reply; this leads me into more questions but I will stay on topic here. Do tow bars come in a variety of widths or are they a standard one-size-fits-all? I am wondering if I will need to relocate the shackles to line up with the tow bar. I want to replace the bumper beacause the previous owner welded a huge brush guard on it and it fits very close to the shackles. So close that I don't see how I could fix the tow bar to them; no room for the bolts! I will take some pics when I get a chance. Your point about the hitch to tow bar geometry is well taken. I will ask about the steering issue I have on a different topic post.

THANK YOU!!
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a nice universal civilian tow bar that has an adjustable width.





Take a look at the rest of the photos in my album on page:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&id=100_1823&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

I use that bar for my jeeps and my Dodge M37
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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mx360guy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wes thanks very much for your help with this. I feel more confident about pulling my jeep now. I will get some pics posted now that it has stopped raining in southern california; it does that once or twice a year; crazy.

Thnanks again!! Very Happy
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skyjeep50
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Posts: 606
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my tow rig for my M38 (and M38A1) - works well. Similar to Wes's rig. As Wes suggested, I did make sure the steering gear was to specs on the M38 beforehand and the tow bar was level to slightly pointing up towards the tow vechicle. I used tractor hitch pins and the brackets that connect to the jeep were custom made.




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