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McArthur
Deep Water kit. M38 vs M38A1
Top bows wanted
Full set of radios - $1,250.00 USD will package for shipping
M38A1 Front to rear floor riser measurement
M38 transfer case yoke torque
NOS m-38 UNDER GAS TANK anti-squeak in original box
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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - need advice!
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need advice!
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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: need advice! Reply with quote

i did a frame off restro, while moving the jeep i heard a knock by the e- brake drum. with further inspection of the area i discovered my rear propeller shaft was at an angle that allowed the sleeve yoke to bind up alittle on the transfer flange yoke.

ive installed all new u-joints also, has anyone had this problem and what did you do to correct this problem? thxs for any advice!
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you phased the joints correctly? If both U joints are not operating in the exact same plane that will happen. The only way to get them out of phase is to slide the slip joint together without aligning the two U joints to each other.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk, not for sure on the meaning of phased joints?.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thxs wesk, when i get home i'll take a look.
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Bretto
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a side note or question related to this. On my shafts when I had them apart, there was no way to clock them incorrectly. Mine are keyed to only go in one way. One of the spline teeth is wider than all the others. Does this indicate they are not stock?
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No,

I have seen many of both indexed & un-indexed splines. My suggestion was intended to help him make sure his were correct. If he has an indexed spline then they will be correctly phased. If he doesn't then he knows how to phase them now. Most un-indexed spline shafts have a pair of arrows in the two tube for indexing.




I check every make/model drive shaft I install to insure that the manufacturer's recommended phasing is correct. Many split shaft set-ups often do not phase the joints identical.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk, they seem to be phased correctly. any other ideas? thxs
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems to be or have you checked them closely with a straight edge?

The only things that will cause the binding you describe is an out of phase joint, too much angularity due to suspension lift, mixing parts between the early short companion flange driveshaft and the late long companion flange driveshaft or trying her out with rear wheels hanging off the jack or lift.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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53a1
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is probably too obvious but if you have it locked in 4wd and the front hubs are locked you will get a clunk while turning on concrete. Maybe that is the sound you heard.
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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nothing has been altered on my end when doing the restore, put it back with the parts that came with it.

i'll get a straight edge and take a look

53a1- i notice it when backing it out of the shop.

thanks guys
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the clunk was not there before you took it apart then you have to review your work.

If the clunk was there before you took it apart suspect a mismatch.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

took the shaft out, the spline shaft is indexed like bretto, and as you stated so it's phased.

something is going on with it, all i did was have the trans and trans rebuilt and new u joints installed, but im wondering if the new trans/transfer mounts are raising it to high therefore putting to much of an angle on the shaft??. just a guess

wesk how can i tell if they are mismatch?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have stock rear springs? Is the rear axle tight via the large U-bolts and aligned properly with the springs main leaf.

Or you may simply have an WO# 801675 flat fender rear drive shaft in your M38A1.


This is the correct M38A1 rear driveshaft and the approved substitute for the M38.


This is the correct rear shaft assy. for the M38. It cannot fit properly on the M38A1.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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circleburner12
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk, the m38 drawing show the spline shaft to be 1 1/4 inches, is this also true for the a1? thxs
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