How to lift the M38 engine ?

Herrmann_Sherman · Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:36 am Post subject: How to lift the M38 engine ?

I want to change the two front engine mounts and I don´t have a garage.
Can you tell me, is there a point on the M38 engine which I can place a jack for to lift up the engine? Otherwise I don´t know how to change the motor mounts..or do you have any other ideas for me?
I also don´t have a crane...

HS

wesk · Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:27 am Post subject:

If your oil pan has the skid plate on it then use a piece of lumber to spread the load over most of the skid plate and use a bottle or floor jack to raise it. You may want to loosen the rear mount bolts and remove the radiator guard of it's a bolt on or the whole radiator assembly if it is not a bolt on.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Herrmann_Sherman · Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:49 am Post subject:

Thanks again, Wes K!

skyjeep50 · Member Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois

Last year I tried to change the front engine mounts on my M38A1 by lifting the front of the engine with an engine hoist. I loosened the rear transmission bolts so there was some freedom of movement. But I found that there was no way to lift the engine enough to get mounts off. Yes, I could have cut the top mounting stud off but then I couldn't have gotten the new mounts in - just not enough clearance. So, I just took the whole power plant out. With the tighter engine bay of a M38, you may have even more difficulty. Maybe others have found a way or had other experiences. Sometimes the simplest things prove to be the hardest on these jeeps!
_________________
1951 M38

wesk · Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:46 am Post subject:

I have done it often. You must raise it very high which is why I mentioned getting the fan shroud out of the way. You unbolt the mount from the frame and the ear on the front plate. Remove the two radiator stays (they are not the same so don't mix them up). Then you must pry one side of the engine higher and twist the mounts out. The M38 is actually easier because the flat head does not hit the firewall as quickly as the overhead valved M38A1 does.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Herrmann_Sherman · Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:00 pm Post subject: Right or wrong?

Spacer?
Something wrong here? This (original?) spacer could make it easy to change the mounts...

RICKG · Member Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1744 Location: SO IDAHO

The left side engine front plate mount tab should be facing forward
as in this foto. Your front mt plate is not M-38. Looks like the spacer
setup on your jeep works though.
_________________
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

Herrmann_Sherman · Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 1:00 pm Post subject:

Can it be a CJ-3A engine?
If i can keep that engine on place with an jack it could be easy to change the mount near the Petrol pump...

wesk · Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 9:17 pm Post subject:

That's a common fabricated bracket that allows the installation of the CJ2A and WWII jeep engines in the later CJ3A and M38 chassis. The reason the front mount plate left mounting ear was switched to the forward direction was to allow for the Dual Fuel/Vacuum pump installation.

As I said above if you remove both mount bolts on the frame and the nut through the front plate ear and bracket and raise the engine they should come out just fine.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php


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