Dragged a new to me M38A1 home

[flatfenderdodge]

I have posted some info on the G I need some help with the serial numbers and motor number trying get some Idea what I have not trying to make any claims just want enough info so that when I decide to do something with this Willys I am headed in the right direction.
I have tried without success to get to the forms to add the M38A1 and I get a 404 message. I am a long time member of the yahoo group.
Here is some pictures and info please look close and comment.
http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=240651

Edited by Wes K: to save the web hopping I have opened Dave a photo album here on this web site. This will make the task of following his post easier and for those of you that are not G503 members easier as well. I have transferred all the photos he has posted and referenced on the G503 post in this album. Dave can access this album and use it if he wishes or I can continue to copy his photos to it.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album386&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[wesk]

Both the tub and the frame are older than 53. Your tub serial 52777 is a July 53 M38A1. Other then the updated battery box cover everything else about that jeep is 1953. Consider the dash Navy tag something someone tacked on the dash to register the jeep and get a title.

The engine could be original to the jeep with that 7XXXX serial. Is the engine serial prefix MD or RMD?

What is on the title for a serial or VIN as they became to be known for vehicles built after 1972.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[flatfenderdodge]

Hi Wes
The prefix on the engine is MD the Willys is registered with the 93105 serial number on the data plate. This Willys came from a person who has scraped several rust buckets. It is a hodge podge of parts the plate probably had a title. I have seen lots of old MV's titled with data plates I will fix that at some point by visiting the highway patrol and getting a 17 digit tag fixed to its frame.
I went looking for something I can drill a hole in with out worry. My 1961 USMC M170 I just can't do that. This M38A1 has no undercoating so I doubt it was USN. I will have some fun with this one and rest the M170.
I did rescue another Willys even if a bunch a parts on wheels.
By the way it runs and drives and stops it has one cylinder with very low compression (65). It runs rough. All the 24 volt stuff is there except the regulator and generator. It has a late model 24 volt alternator.
The battery box is a mess but easy fix. And all the seats are there but I have not figured out the passenger seat mounts and Mr. Gopan says the emergency brake is CJ. Never having a CJ I am not sure what about it makes it that. Also another person on the G said the emergency brake drum looked like an M38 not sure what that's about but it is totally different than My late M170.
Someone put 750 16's on the Willys and the rears have scuffed up the inner rear wheel wells I will change them back to slower moving 700 or even 650 NDT types. When I pull the bypass hose I will get a picture of the engine number.

Thanks Again

[wesk]

The M38A1 used an external shoe type drum similar to the WWII jeep. Yours has the internal expanding shoe drum setup used on the CJ's and the M38. Should be interesting to see how they hooked the original linkage rod type setup for that hand brake handle to the M38 style drum that used a cable set up.

That 60 amp alternator will do well for you. I put one on my M37 a few years back and it still does just fine.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[flatfenderdodge]

I posted a couple pictures of the rear of the A1 over on the G see the link in previous post here after removing the spare tire and its carrier which I am not sure if original. The article in the archives show holes for the reflector and a curved piece of steel on the underside that missing from this carrier is it a really bad repro or an early original?






_________________
Dave Ball
Editor MVCC
www.mvccnew.net

[wesk]

There were several versions of that tire bracket. The M38 and early A1 used the two piece bracket in your photos. The anti-rattle tongue was spot welded to the bottom half and is often broken off. The later M38A1 used a welded one piece assembly. Most had reflector screw holes so they may be covered by that big stickon reflector or they may have been closed up.


M38 & early A1 two piece


Same as above


Late one piece
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[flatfenderdodge]

Thanks Wes so I will clean this mount up and reuse it. I better start taken lots of pictures at swap meets of clean examples so I know which holes to close up I counted over 75 in the bed. Did all the M38A1's have the mounting holes for the 100 amp system cut in the grill? 4 small ones in the front bars and one big one in the side?
Are early front fenders hard to find? I have an early and a late.

Thanks again



_________________
Dave Ball
Editor MVCC
www.mvccnew.net

[wesk]

No. Look up Change 3 to TM 9-8015-2 covers the installation of the 100 amp system and explains each of the bolt holes and larger openings that need to be drilled or cut.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[flatfenderdodge]

Would it be wrong just to leave all those holes in the grill and fan shroud? a friend came over today with a radio chest or as I called it a big green box. I now know what all the holes in my rear wheel houses are for and he showed me the holes for the power cable that's been removed. I will fill all those holes and the ones in the floor.
I want to save this tub. My plan is to remove sand blast and primer and paint it before the cold sets in. Over on the G Mr. Gopan described my transfer case to a tee and I think it is M38 so I may have to change that out for a later M38A1. Even though its been said it is a CJ emergency brake cable it works and holds the Jeep from rolling. The compression problem is a head gasket issue. But I will go with this motor. I have decided to rebuild it I am fine with that. I have already stripped out the interior and started on the fuel tank then I will pull the dash and then the tub. Has anyone had any luck with the military steering wheel puller? The one that comes in the metal box that looks like a big C clamp with a sleeve that goes under the wheel that pushes on the center flange of the wheel and button that goes on the shaft. I have had no luck with these they always spread the shaft or crush it . What's the best way to get a broken spoke steering wheel off without damaging the shaft? My friend left the mount for a GRC7 or 9 not sure what it goes to so I may also have that to trade

Thanks


_________________
Dave Ball
Editor MVCC
www.mvccnew.net

[wesk]

What holes you leave depend entirely on what type of resto you are doing. Motor pool, beater, driver leave them. Factory fix them.

The only real difference in the transfer case between a M38 and a M38A1 is the parking brake set-up and rear output bearing retainer. Both set-ups will bolt on to any of the transfer cases. That is the only reason for the two different part numbers. Put the A1 brake parts on it and Mr Gopan will call it a M38A1 transfer. The M38 and the A1 use the same speedo gears with the exception of the sleeves which early was short and later long.

Now there several differences between the military transfer and the civvy transfers. What Gopan was referring to with the filler plugs was confusing. The M38 & M38A1 have the same plug. They have a large round head and a square recess in the head to insert the square drive from your ratchet. The civvy cases use a plain pipe type plug that has a square head and you use an 8 point socket or open end wrench to remove it. The shaft that the two shift levers ride on is a threaded bolt on the military transfers and a slide in pin on the civvy units.

The GI puller works just fine for me. Soak the hub a few days with penetrant and then snug up the remover and whack it with a hammer.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php