Joined: Jun 04, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Warsaw, Texas 75142
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:17 pm Post subject: motor color and penetrating oil
hi group
its been awhile sence i have posted. i pushed my m38
into the barn today to get started on it.i have several question
to ask of you. first i need to know the best penetrating oil
to start the tear down
second i am going to have the motor long blocked for $1750.00
is that a fair price? what color was the paint on the engine
and trammison from willys
3rd im thinking of leaveing the body as it is now as i found it
just have the jeep road ready, What's Your Opinion????
thanks bob
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3470 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:24 pm Post subject:
Hard to beat Liquid Wrench Bob. I've had to spray a couple of bolts,
tap on them a while, leave overnight, and do again, but eventually
what I've tried to remove came free or broke off.
The two bolts, well one bolt and one screw were compromised,
rusty and weakened through due to corrosion. They weren't going
anywhere.
As far as complete tear down versus driver, I have taken the approach
so far of completing whatever work I'm doing at the end of the day
or so then be able to drive her.
These are must haves if you are disassembling any old rusty vehicle. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 201 Location: Escondido, CA
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:12 pm Post subject:
My favorite is Kroil, which comes in both liquid and aerosol forms. Hard to find locally. I found a can of the liquid at a gun shop that caters to precision shooters as they like it for barrel cleaning during break-in. The aerosol can be ordered direct from manufacturer, but only by the case of 12.
I like Wes's inclusion of the two "blue wrenches"!
Engine and tranny paint color is the same as frame, body, and practically everything else: OD 2430 _________________ Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
Check out my album with the NOS M38 engine in the crate. Granted this is a mid 50's factory crate engine and color is close to 24087 used by the Army after 53. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Jim, On exhaust system work and really heavy rust deposits work I use both the heat and the penetrant. Where the rust buildup actually impedes the penetrant's ability to soak in far enough the heat followed by a few squirts will usually remove the impedance. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Wisconsin is s dairy state,but the little farmers can't make a living competing with the large corporate farms. There farms fell into disrepair and became overrun with mice. Some enterprising farmer started milking the mice and selling it for a rust penetrant. Or was it a old farmer went crazy and ,no . Maybe it's a California thing. Actually just a brand name of a penetrant. _________________ 51 M38 ,52 M38 ,53 Jeep PU ,62 M 37 ,68 M 715
Mouse milk is a rather expensive penetrant we use in the aviation industry which works very well on turbo charged exhaust systems.
$24.48 for the big 32 oz. jug and $7.47 for the 8 oz. bottle.
http://www.mousemilk.com/ _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 201 Location: Escondido, CA
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:29 am Post subject:
wesk wrote:
Jim, On exhaust system work and really heavy rust deposits work I use both the heat and the penetrant. Where the rust buildup actually impedes the penetrant's ability to soak in far enough the heat followed by a few squirts will usually remove the impedance.
Yup, me, too. Another trick, as you probably well know, is to heat the offender and let it cool before trying to break it loose rather than trying to turn it while it is still hot. Sometimes works best one way, sometimes the other. And along those lines, sometimes working the fastener loose, tight, loose, tight, repeat, repeat, gaining a little movement with each pass is the way to get there. And sometimes a lot of light taps with a hammer on the wrench will loosen a fastener that would break right off with a lot of torque or with an impact wrench.
Then there were my spring U-bolt nuts, which required a torch, penetrating oil AND an impact wrench. I might as well have just cut the U-bolts off with the torch and been done with it, as the threads were shot after all that.
I've learned to distinguish h*ll-for-tight-but-good-thread situations from rusted-tight ones and can usually pick the right persuasive solution. The former just require a lot of torque (impact driver or long wrench or whacks on the wrench with a BFH) while the latter require much more finesse if you don't want to break something.
Mouse Milk: that's a new one on me! I don't think that's any more expensive than Kroil, "the oil that creeps!" _________________ Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
Heres an interesting link I saw on the 3A page.
BTW, nice patina on the M38 Bob!! _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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