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MG777 Member
Joined: Mar 14, 2015 Posts: 13
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 3:12 pm Post subject: Ignition switch m38a1 |
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Hi everyone I recently bought a m38a1, that has an original switch which is not very secure. I was thinking of installing a battery kill switch in the glove compartment...
However I would like to keep the original iginiton switch where it is, therefore if any one has suggestions on what I could do. Suggestions would be greatl appreciated. Also the glove box has no key lock only simple pulling nob. I saw an original nob with a key. Does anone know where I can an original glove box lock.
Thank you in advance,
Marc |
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G740 Member
Joined: Jan 27, 2006 Posts: 499
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 8:15 pm Post subject: GB Lock |
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Hi,
The original glove box latch is simply a push button. NO key. The current replacements are made by the original company that made them in the day, but now, they only offer them to us keyed.
Regards
John
MWM
TM9 Ordnance Products |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16286 Location: Wisconsin
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MG777 Member
Joined: Mar 14, 2015 Posts: 13
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Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 3:56 am Post subject: |
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What about the ignition switch? What can i do concerning the ignition switch? I mean when I drivecand leave my car someone could get in and drive aeay since no key is needed to start the car? |
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danrothe2001 Member
Joined: Oct 24, 2011 Posts: 48
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Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 4:58 am Post subject: |
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I have not got to the point of installing it on my jeep, but I bought a toggle switch from Saturn Surplus that had Douglas connectors to plug inline on the ignition wire and conceal under the dash. No splicing required and easy to return to original configuration. There are also several threads about using a chain to lock the shifter so it can only be driven in reverse. Remember, you are not going to stop a thief. Only slow them down. I doubt anyone under 50 will know how to use the foot starter anyway. |
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skyjeep50 Member
Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 6:31 am Post subject: |
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My M38A1 has a hidden keyed master electrical switch under and just behind the right front fender. The key faces downwards but is locked in place when in the on position. It can be removed in the off position. The switch can't be seen from the side of the jeep, nobody knows its there (except everyone reading this forum). It can be seen from the engine compartment but doesn't really look like anything special because the key faces downwards. The switch interrupts one of the battery cables. There are many places you can hide such a switch. When you park in a public place and want to lock it out, take the key and go. _________________ 1951 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16286 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 7:55 am Post subject: |
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The battery disconnect switch is the only reasonable and non-obtrusive way to disable the jeep for theft protection. But it will only slow a determined and experience thief down a little. Interruption switches can be jumped, chains can be cut. An often overlooked method is to install a shut off valve in the fuel supply if your original one isn't there. I would focus on enjoying your jeep and avoid an obsession with theft proofing.
Battery disconnect switch
Here you can see the original fuel shutoff valve on top of the left frame rail by the steering box. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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MG777 Member
Joined: Mar 14, 2015 Posts: 13
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you very much for your input. This really helped me resolve the security problem on my m38a1 |
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acengraver Member
Joined: Jan 14, 2009 Posts: 104 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:21 am Post subject: |
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I have a keyed ignition switch in the glove-box of my M38A1. I can turn off the ignition and take the key with me. The original ignition switch still functions normally when the key is in the on position. _________________ MVPA #30367
Dixie Division MVPA Member
1952 M38A1
1952 M-100 Strick
1951 M38
1952 M38
1943 GPW
1942 Chevrolet G506 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16286 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:27 am Post subject: |
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Again I will say that these are stop gap methods that are easily navigated around by a thief. Interupting the power is an easy thing to get around with two jumper wires, one from the battery terminal on the starter to the coil and they are driving it away plus one from the #10 to #11 wire if they want the gauges & lights to work.
In order of level of deterrence from low to high the choices are:
1- interrupt ignition.
2- interrupt battery power.
3- interrupt fuel supply
4- lock shifter
5- club lock wheel
6- leave an armed guard. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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WillysMotors Contributor
Joined: Jan 19, 2006 Posts: 111
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hidden wire shorting out the points is my normal method.
Most of mine have a knob labelled heat that needs to be pulled out for it to run. (tougher to do with the sealed distributor>) |
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Madriver1968 Member
Joined: Nov 27, 2016 Posts: 61 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Howdy all,
I've been reading through older threads on installing a keyed ignition switch on an M38A1, and ultimately, I've decided to do so.
My question is this -- the prior owner of my 1954 M38A1 had installed a CJ3 style ignition switch like the one pictured below. I'd like to connect it to my new wiring harness.
In reading the tech manual, I understand that the standard M38A1 switch connects A to B, and then C to D. I also understand that Wire 11 connects A to C.
The CJ3 switch has four screws -- the center starer switch, which I will not use. The three remaining screws all have continuity to one another when the CJ3 switch is turned to the on position.
For those who are more electrically minded, any suggestions on how to connect the CJ3 switch to wires 27, 13 and 11?
Thanks all!
Bill S. |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16286 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:59 am Post subject: |
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To provide you with a reasonable answer we will need more info.
1-Is your new harness a bone stock 24V early M38A1 harness with Packard metal connectors?
2-Is that switch in your photo the actual switch you are using?
3-On the back of the switch you are using each terminal will have an embossed purpose for it in the plastic right next to the terminal. Tell us what each terminal ID is. IE ACC, BAT, IGN, ST and so on.
I edited your web site generic switch photo to point out what markings I am referring to. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Madriver1968 Member
Joined: Nov 27, 2016 Posts: 61 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Wes,
Thanks for your reply and questions and willingness to help! Here's what I've got.
1. The harness is new (purchased from Pete Dabella) and is bone stock. It's got metal Douglass connectors.
2. Here's a photo of the actual switch, together with labels of the four posts.
When the switch is turned to the "on" position, I have continuity between ACC, IGN and BAT. I only have continuity to ST (between BAT and IGN) when the key is turned to the spring-loaded "starter" position (as with a modern automobile). I'm only planning on using this switch as an "on" "off" switch, so I assume I can simply ignore the ST.
Thanks so much. |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16286 Location: Wisconsin
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