M38 Pinion Yoke Removal

[Rotorhead]

Hi everyone, I'm replacing some leaking pinion seals and have removed the driveshafts (replacing u-joints while I've got them out). The nuts holding the yokes on the pinions are being stubborn - is this just high torque, or LH thread? There is only one thread showing and appears to be RH thread. And yes, cotter pin is out. Also, I'm changing the round rubber mount under the transfer case - are there different types? The old rubber is out leaving a metal 'cup' attached to the cross member. The new rubber OD is greater than the ID of the top lip of the metal cup. Am I missing something?

[wesk]

Most folks use a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun. There is a special holding tool made for the yoke.


Home made tool 1


Home made tool 2


Home made tool 3


Home made tool 4


Adapting a pipe wrench.

If you examine the transfer mount closely there are two steel saucers. The slightly smaller one is the rusted on leftover that was originally bonded to the rubber donut. Then the slightly larger saucer that is welded to the crossmember.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[Skipanellin]

My Dad and I just replaced the pinion seals on my M38, and getting the rear yoke off was a real bear. My Dad soaked it with penetrating oil and put a gear puller on it that he continually adjusted for days hoping it would pop. We finally put a breaker bar on the gear puller until we felt it might break, and then rattled it with a pneumatic impact gun. I think it was actually the vibration, rather than the torque that finally broke it loose.

The pinion seals came out in pieces, using a screw driver and pliers. Not too bad. We made a tool out of a piece of galvanized pipe fence post to drive the new seals in without deforming them. It worked really well.

Good luck.