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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country
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 Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 3:00 pm Post subject: Filling holes |
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Pretty surprised the windshield frame has only a little pitting and rust through, mainly on the top of the rope channel. However, our friend Bubba over the years has been at work with this one.
There are holes in the top of the frame that I assume are for a civvy CJ top, which make sense. There are also a row, not a straight line, and definitely not spaced regularly, through the front face of the windshield. Some of the holes actually penetrate both the main sheet metal as well as the vertical portion of the rope channel. Some real high tech work there. I am thinking maybe the M38 top wore away at the corner of the rope channel and our friend just whacked the offending portion off and installed snaps in the edge and drilled umpteen holes to tie it down.
The holes are all about 1/4" in diameter. What is the best way to fill them? My brother in law suggested lead. However.........
Do I cut out a jillion 1/4" discs and mig them? Ideas?
Tks,
Brian
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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OKCM38CDN
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 530
Location: Del City, OK
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| Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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I am working on a M-38A1 tub that is full of holes drilled for some civilian accessories... If they are just the sheet metal thickness I take a piece of copper bar and clamp it in place under the hole and fill it in with the MIG...
I would do the same for the ones that are multiple depth on your windshield... just being careful not to go to deep... no bar of course...
After the holes are filled I use an 80 grit or so sanding disk (the type with multiple pieces of paper around the disc) and sand the area smooth... I use a 4 1/2 inch grinder...
You just have to be patient and take your time to get it to look good... after a coat of good primer and paint never know the hole was there...
Hope this helps...
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Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country
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southpw
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Joined: Jun 15, 2014
Posts: 268
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:15 am Post subject: |
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I work in a fab shop and we use copper behind things we want to fill with weld. The metal and copper won'tbond together. But don't use a thin piece or the heat of the weld will melt the copper a little and then it will stick.
My windshield is in similar condition and plan on trying this to mine when I get to that part of the project. Currently it's a rolling chassis
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1952 M38 project
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4x4M38
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Xamon
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wesk
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Xamon
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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country
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| Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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Ok,
Practicing my butt weld joins with 16 gauge until I can get some 18.
Making some progress, but when it hits 100 in the shade I head for cooler pastures.
I understand the backer bar concept. What do I do when I have blind holes, in other words, through holes in the sheet, but with no way to get a backer behind the metal where the holes are? For instance, in the front sides of the windshield.
Tks,
Brian
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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wesk
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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country
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wesk
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RonD2
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Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County
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| Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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Yowza! If I had any brass (and I'm a rookie so I haven't been issued any yet) I'd say there's no mercy in this forum!  Plenty of love though..... 
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari
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wesk
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jimm
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Location: Escondido, CA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 8:44 am Post subject: |
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| wesk wrote: | J
I just plugged 10 holes in a steel door frame for an antique aircraft using good old fashioned Oxy/acetylene and it took all of 15 minutes. All blind holes and no way to back-up. The right temp, right flame, right motion and filler rod! |
That's what I was going to suggest. I find gas welding a lot easier (for me) to control, and the result is filler metal that isn't harder than the base metal like you get with MIG. You have to be careful about the amount of heat, but like Wes said, with the right techniques that is minimized.
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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