View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 5:17 pm Post subject: a1 rear axle removal |
|
|
I am ready to pull the rear axles to repack bearings and install inner seals but I cannot find the proper tool locally to do the job. I was told to use a slide hammer and although Auto Zone and Advance Auto both had them they were lacking the proper adaptor to attach to the axle so now I am not sure how to proceed. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16272 Location: Wisconsin
|
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 9:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The puller is needed for removing the hub from the rear axle. Then you unbolt the rear axle bearing retainer and the axle will usually slide right out. A slide type puller is not the best choice. A striker type puller is the tool of choice. Most cases the tapered hub joint won't give to a slide type puller.
OTC Hub Puller Part # 7394 $159.00 You can find offshore units cheaper, often under $50
If you must try a cheaper slide puller you will need one with the two adapters at the far left (MY BAD) make that far right in this photo. Their usual problem is they often do not clear the threaded end of the axle.
_________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Last edited by wesk on Sat Aug 18, 2018 8:49 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
longld Member
Joined: Mar 21, 2017 Posts: 71 Location: Peoria, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 10:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
do you mean at the far right of the pic? _________________ Lee Long
Peoria, AZ
1953 M38A1 USMC
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:22 am Post subject: |
|
|
I have the hub removed from the axle and the bearing retainer unbolted but the axle will not budge that is why I was wondering if I need a slide hammer or something to force the axle out. My local auto parts stores do not carry the right tool so are there other options? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16272 Location: Wisconsin
|
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 9:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
Have you removed the brake backing plate?
This is where you should be right now
Don't loose track of any shims. Item E in illustration may be more than just one.
If you install a new bearing on either side you will have to re-adjust end play with these shims. Of cours you should measure end play anytime the axle is removed on either side. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 10:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yes everything is removed including the backing plate. I see in the illustration a slide hammer with a three jaw puller around the axle nut and washer being used to pull the axle. I am heading back to Auto Zone to borrow one and give it a try. On the subject of shims the p/s axle had a shim in front and in back of the bearing retainer while the d/s axle had only one shim behind the bearing retainer. Does this sound correct? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well the slide hammer did the trick got everything apart repacked the bearings and installed the inner seals. Looking at the manual the shims are the first part to go on after the axles are in place. Upon closer inspection there are indeed two shims on each side the two on the d/s were so tight together it looked like one. When I disassembled the p/s I was real careful to put everything in order the way it came off and there was one shim on each side of the beating retainer so did someone put it back together wrong and in fact both shims should be up against the axle tube flange which it shows in the manual? I would say it was reassembled wrong just want to be sure. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well the slide hammer did the trick got everything apart repacked the bearings and installed the inner seals. Looking at the manual the shims are the first part to go on after the axles are in place. Upon closer inspection there are indeed two shims on each side the two on the d/s were so tight together it looked like one. When I disassembled the p/s I was real careful to put everything in order the way it came off and there was one shim on each side of the beating retainer so did someone put it back together wrong and in fact both shims should be up against the axle tube flange which it shows in the manual? I would say it was reassembled wrong just want to be sure. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
One other thing how critical is the end play? I noted how much play there was before I removed the axles and I have what I think feels about the same but it is just an educated guess. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16272 Location: Wisconsin
|
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
Put the shims only in the location shown in the illustration for either side.
The end play is adjusted per the spec in TM 9-804 page 139 (top of page) or TM 9-8012 page 251 Par. (1) thru (13). Setting is 0.003 to 0.007.
The end play determines the bearing life by controlling pressure/heat buildup. I think this is important enough to get her right the first time. Always cheaper in time and money that way.
You measure it with a dial indicator. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:03 am Post subject: |
|
|
What would happen if I have excessive end play? Right now I would say it is over the .007. Just wondering if it would be ok as is. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16272 Location: Wisconsin
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Probably the reason I am avoiding setting the axle end play is that I have never done it and I do not own a dial indicator. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
rgmutchler Member
Joined: Sep 28, 2008 Posts: 345 Location: Caldwell, Texas
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zeke57 Member
Joined: Dec 28, 2017 Posts: 194 Location: Salamanca,NY
|
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 5:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Anybody else have a recommendation for a dial indicator that will do the job for reasonable $$$. I have no problem spending top dollar for a quality tool if it will see constant use but in my case it will only see sporadic use. Would I be better off buying a quality used one off ebay or buy a new lesser brand. Thanks for all the help. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|