cj5 motor in m38a1 frame

lilhubbs24 · Member Joined: Aug 07, 2018 Posts: 3

I'm trying to install the motor and tranny. I have a cj5 motor and tranny but I have an m38a1 frame. the motor mounts are like 1 1/2' forward. Is there a conversion kit or am I doing something wrong?

wesk · Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 9:49 pm Post subject:

If the CJ5 engine is an F134 from a 1955 thru 1971 CJ5 then it came from the factory with same mount plate as the M38A1 except for the A1's beefed up generator front mounting hole.

That means either you CJ5 F134 has a wierd front mount plate that came from a different installation or your M38A1 chassis has been modified in the past for a different engine.

This is a good point in time to use the old saying "A picture is worth a thousand words" and post some of the frame mounts in the A1 chassis and the front mount plate on your CJ5 engine.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

zeke57 · Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:02 pm Post subject:

After reading this I am wondering if I am going to have the same problem as lilhubbs24. I am installing a non-military f134 into a '52 a1.

wesk · Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:05 pm Post subject:

And I'll offer the same info for you. If the F134 engine came out of a 55 to 71 CJ5/CJ6 or a 53 to 65 CJ3B the from mount plate ears are in exactly the same place as the M38A1 front mount plate and they will bolt right in the M38A1 stock chassis.

The F134 engine originated in 1950 production for the Pickups Wagons and Jeepster. if you have an F134 with a low VJXXXXX or UXXXXX or PXXXXX then it may have the early F134 front plate with some changes in locations.

Up thru about 54 the Jeep universal F134 serials would have had a chassis series Identifier at the beginning of their serials but after 54 the F134 engine serials became 4JXXXXX no matter which chassis they went in at the factory.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

zeke57 · Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 8:04 am Post subject:

There is a number cast near the base of the block which reads 807895 16. Would that tell me anything about the production year and whether it may bolt up or not?

wesk · Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 10:01 am Post subject:

Again let me restate. The serial number of the block will answer that question not the casting number. That casting number is the 2nd F134 block design used by Willys and came out in 1952. Go look at the serial number above the water pump on the small flat. Then post that serial number here.

I'll also restate this again from my earlier reply:

zeke57 · Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 10:47 am Post subject:

Unfortunately the area where the serial number should be located is pitted and is gone. Does it appear anywhere else on the engine? And I will get some pictures.

lilhubbs24 · Member Joined: Aug 07, 2018 Posts: 3

I’m trying to figure out how to post pictures from
My phone

wesk · Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 1:51 pm Post subject:

The engines only left Willys with one serial number. review my F134 engine photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album138&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Engines that have been rebuilt professionally often have an added ID plate with the rebuild info on it fastened to the left side of the block. Willys failed to plan ahead on these engines with their serial number placement. The pad the serial sits on is the upper deck of the block and when an engine gets overhauled it usually requires a light machining of the deck surface to get rid of the waves and bumps that develop. This machining often shaves off the lightly stamped serial numbers. If you clean the pad thoroughly with a scotchbrite pad and MEK or Brake cleaner you can often barely see the shadow of these numbers.

If you want to post a photo here you must first have that photo loaded to a web site so it has it's on URL. Don't waste your time with all the web photo hosters. Just get an album here on this web site. Put your photos in then link them to your postings.

These older forums like ours do not fair well when users try to work with them from portable devises. Pads, lap tops and PC's work fine.

Look down the list of boards on our forum and go to that one down near the bottom that is titled Photo Album Requests and questions and request an album.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

zeke57 · Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 7:17 pm Post subject:

I have some photos in my album of my '52 a1 chassis and my non military f134 engine mounting points. Anyone think this will bolt up?http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album622&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

wesk · Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 1:02 am Post subject:

Your front engine mounting plate looks fine. Your two front mount pads at the frame look fine. That leaves the rear crossmember setup. Look real hard at the many manual and mjeeps member's album photos to make sure you are setting that rear crossmember and mount brackets on top of it correctly.

Looking at the front of your engine that lower CJ5 dual pulley is the civvy unit with a single wide and a single narrow pulley. The M38A1 uses a dual narrow. The generator mount also looks civvy.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php


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