New M38 tub?

[BB]

Anyone used a new tub from Kaiser Willy’s for a an M38 ? Pros cons, any input from experience would be of great help in making a decision.
Thanks, Brian
52 M38

[Roughneck]

from my best guess the tubs from kaiser willys should be direct from md juan or omix-ada

[wesk]

MD Juan is the only producer of these tubs currently. They have improved over the years but still need work when you get them.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[BB]

Can’t decide what to do my original body has very little rust but the dash is a cj2a that is braised in, the battery box is gone, and a plate braised over the hole. The right side has some poor body work in the front and the interior has a lot of paint layers to be blasted. I am kind of stuck on the idea it is original 1952 metal.

[OKCM38CDN]

Do your homework, there are several folks here in the states making replacement panels to fix things.

Midwest military does the battery boxes, and for those doing M-38A1's I recommend their front floors. (Wish they would make some M-38 floors to match (HINT JOHN))

Classic Enterprises makes fantastic side panels and back areas.

I have restored both my M-38 CDN and am working an a M-38A! that needed panels was well worth the time and research.

Hope this helps...
_________________
Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK

[mdainsd]

Fix the original! As stated some patch panels are available to repair. Those offshore bodies are junk, at least that has been my experience with them. There are even a couple places making a business out of turning those sows ears into silk purses (kinda).
_________________
'52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car

[BBDE]

Hello Brian,

As the other guys have written,
fix your tub with panels and try to get a original dashbord and cowl panel as a take out.
That would be the better way.

When you fix your old tub, it remains almost original.
If you take a replacement body, your Jeep isnt that longer.

O.K, the quality of those repro Bodys, over the years is getting better time to time.

But I have seen repros that be creepy in workmanship and matching accuracy.

Like you state, your tub isnt so bad, you can't fix it.

If you build a "fun Jeep" one of those repros would work for.
But if you want to have a authentic Stock/Motorpool Jeep, stay with the original tub.

There are guys out there, which can recognize those details, and can tell apart repros from originals at over one mile distance.

Keep the original body.

Frank

[dpcd67]

I have used two replacement body kits; they are not junk. If you have nothing, then that is your only choice, and the vendor is immaterial, they all come from MDJ. While not 100% perfect, they work fine.
The last M38 I did, the entire floor and 3 inches of the bottom, and the battery box in the cowl were missing; I got a repro floor, which fit perfectly, welded it in. got a battery box from MM, welded that in, and made the lower part of the body. So yes, keep it original if you can, but if you can't, then noting wrong with using a new body. We aren't restoring priceless collectors items here, they are old jeeps and not rare.
In your case, get it sandblasting to show all the body work, and fix the original body.
And it is brazed; Braising is cooking meat
_________________
M38 23100 June 51
M38 34523 Sep 51
M606/CJ3B 1964 Kaiser 57348 118458
M37B1 1963
Willys MB 1944
Ford GPW 1942
Dodge WC63 1943
Dodge Power Wagon WM300 1967
Plymouth Barracuda, 1973, 340 4 barrel
All ground up restored by me.
Lots of others.