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Cacti_Ken Member
Joined: Apr 20, 2005 Posts: 1021 Location: Silsbee, Texas
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:55 am Post subject: wind shield gasket |
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I am going to get a glass cut for the windshield frame. I have the rubber gasket with the lock strip. Is the lock strip supposed to be inserted into the gasket before the gasket and glass are put into the frame? Or after they are installed in frame? _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM |
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cmpman Member
Joined: Dec 27, 2006 Posts: 47
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:49 am Post subject: |
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Lock strip goes in after. There are tools available for this, and if you find the right place the tool can be had for under $10.
It can be done with a couple screwdrivers as well, but after having done it for over a decade in the military by this method, the proper tool is a real time (and gasket) saver. In the old days, trying to get a tool that your level of repair was not entitled to, was like trying to herd cats. It just couldn't be done. (This was in the Cdn Forces....not sure how bad the US military was)
When installing the main gasket I always used engine oil for lubricant, as opposed to silicone spray or the gel handcleaner like so many others used. The oil will swell the rubber slightly and cause a better seal. You just have to wipe off the excess afterwards. |
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Cacti_Ken Member
Joined: Apr 20, 2005 Posts: 1021 Location: Silsbee, Texas
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:00 am Post subject: |
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ok thanks, now where does the starting point or end of gasket seal start, at the bottom or the top of frame? Does the locking strip end start at the same place as the gasket seal end? Is the gasket end cut square or at an angle? _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16289 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:30 am Post subject: |
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If you have a new manufacture seal the oil isn't really necessary. I just use a bucket of soapy water. That way I don't have to fight oil streaks on the glass for two years when it rains.
Both ends should be at the bottom or sides and the bead staggered from the main gasket. I prefer the sides. There is less shrinkage to pull the ends apart over the years and water entry is less likely here. The bottom and top being much longer runs will allow a much larger gap to occur over the years due to the graeter amount of shrinkage.
The bead by the way goes in from the back side of the windshield on the M38. Thta's the way the factory did it. Others will argued the point but the fact is Willys put the bead lock in from the backside period. I know the industry standard was to put them in from the front (wind load side) but Willys didn't think it was necessary and obviously you don't get 70 to 100 MPH wind loads on these windshields.
All of this is clearly explained in the service manuals except for the end locations.
SM-1046 1971 Kaiser service manaul page 354
SM-1002 R5 1965 on page 271
TM 9-1804B page 167 and particular attention to arrangement of parts in the accompanying illustration on page 168. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Cacti_Ken Member
Joined: Apr 20, 2005 Posts: 1021 Location: Silsbee, Texas
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the reply Wes.
I now have to decide on clear or tinted glass. I think the clear was probably original, but I'm leaning toward tinted which would be easier on my eyes since I have had catarach removed and lense replaced in one eye. Of coarse I have to wear sunglasses too, so if I went with the clear glass then it may not be too bad as long as I am wearing the sunglasses. Decisions.....! _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
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steveh Member
Joined: Nov 10, 2006 Posts: 31 Location: Somerset, Ohio
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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I am at about the point where I will be installing a glass in my M-38. I am interested in knowing more about the tool designed for the job. Where might one find one of these tools and how is it used?
Thanks
Steve
M-38 61702 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16289 Location: Wisconsin
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cmpman Member
Joined: Dec 27, 2006 Posts: 47
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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I got mine here in Canada at a chain called princess auto. I think it was around $5.
A gogle search will find you various suppliers such as:
http://www.redhillsupply.com/LIS47000.htm
The tool opens up the channel where the lock strip goes in, and feeds the lock strip in while pushing down on it. |
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steveh Member
Joined: Nov 10, 2006 Posts: 31 Location: Somerset, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 5:28 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, Wes. I'll look it up.
Steve |
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maeserik Member
Joined: Jun 14, 2006 Posts: 226 Location: Wijnegem Belgium Europe
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Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 6:22 am Post subject: |
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Let a second person help you with the job. Lay it on a good and soft surfce . ( i use the kitchen table, it winter when i did the job) Use tape to fix the gasket round the glass. Have patient during pulling the rope and drink a good beer after the job ! Take time for it and . Putting the round gasket afterwards is a easy job, i used an old screwdriver for it.
succes !
Erik _________________ 1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgallery.php?cat=1865
and this webside |
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Cacti_Ken Member
Joined: Apr 20, 2005 Posts: 1021 Location: Silsbee, Texas
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Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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Well shame on me, I took the easy way out.
glass $42.00,
labor 20.00,
tax , 3.47
total 65.47
I figured if I broke it, I would be out another 42.00. _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
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