Distributor Weights

[horse]

While checking the timing I would like to clean up the inside of the distributor and oil parts as required. I have read that you should use 40 w motor oil on the weights, but how much and where. Also to oil the felt pad with a lighter oil but what weight?
I have also seen people talk about an Oiler around the distributor but after looking have not found anything. Thanks in advance. Horse.
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1952 M38

[RonD2]

Hi Horse,
I assume you have the M38 waterproof distributor? I could be mistaken (because I use a CJ distributor), but don't think yours has an external oiler port on it. Seems like it would defeat the waterproof feature?

Do you have a copy of TM9-1825B, Electrical Equipment (Autolite)? It has an extensive chapter on distributors. From what I read in several places, it refers to using "preservative lubricating oil", which I'd guess is a light machine mineral oil.

My CJ distributor has an external oil port and the manual says to use a few drops of 30W motor oil. Same for the felt wick under the rotor, and a drop on the pivot points on the weights. I can't imagine that using 40W would cause a problem.

Good luck!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[horse]

Hi. yes I have the waterproof distributor and good point why it does not have an oiler. I will look at the manual which Wes has loaded. Thanks for the tips on using the oil.
Regards.
Horse
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1952 M38

[4x4M38]

The external oiler port would allow water in when fording?
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[45auto]

On the waterproof distributers, the "oiler" is low on the housing behind a brass slotted plug (you use a screwdriver to remove) inside there is a one inch long or so square felt that you would saturate with oil and replace.
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Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6

[RonD2]

Yup, there it is, top of page 245 of TM9-1825B, Electrical Equipment (Autolite), November 1952.

"Remove slotted plug and take out felt wick. Inspect wick for damage and soak in preservative lubricating oil. Fill wick cavity with automotive and artillery grease and insert wick. Wipe off excess grease. Coat plug with plastic type gasket cement and install."

Thanks Harold!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[wesk]

I would take the time to read all of pages 241 thru 247 in TM 9-1825B dated 1952. There are more than one lubricating location on the distributor.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[horse]

Thanks to the both of you I will have a good study.
Regards. Horse
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1952 M38

[horse]

After reading I find it does have an oiler inside the distributor.
Also the TM talks about using Automotive and Artillery grease on some parts also preservative lubricating oil.
What would be the modern equivelants I could use as a substitute?
Thanks Horse.
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1952 M38

[RonD2]

Too many products on the market to research equivalents. You can google "Grease Automotive Artillery" and get many hits. The Army still uses it today.

I think most any quality modern wheel bearing grease would work well. And a drop or three of the same motor oil you use in your crankcase would also work well on the felt wicks and pivots.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[horse]

Thanks Ron at least I have those items on stock.
Horse.
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1952 M38

[wesk]

It is not that difficult to search for products if you first learn the modern version of the MIL Spec for the stuff you are looking for. Here's an example:

I went looking for Oil, lubricating general purpose preservative.

First I googled: Guide to military lubricant specifications 1950's thru 1960's

Then I selected from the listing: http://www.lubrita.com/news/138/671/Do-You-know-about-MIL-Specifications-and-meaning/

Then I located VV-L-800

[horse]

Thanks Wes good point well made.
I always have tried to get the correct product for the job not just "this will do" type attitude.
I will hold on until I have the required products.
Thanks Horse.
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1952 M38

[RonD2]

Thank you, Wes, and forgive me, but I was trying to spare Horse from being dragged through the Knothole School of Mil-Spec Land.
After a lifetime of navigating it myself I can truthfully say it's not easy to decipher.

In practical everyday usable terms, all I could find that meets MIL-PRF-32033A that you can actually buy is this https://skygeek.com/brayco-300.html at $22 a quart (a lifetime supply) that also has a 6-year shelf life. There are probably other specialty houses to order it from because you sure aren't very likely to find it at any auto parts store near you.

I still wonder what the average soldier back in the 1952 motor pool would use? I bet 30W is high on the list.

Yes, LPS-2 is commonly available and probably a better product than 30W to use today, but it doesn't meet MIL-PRF-32033A that I could see. LPS-2 is MIL-PRF-16173E. What to do?
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[wesk]

Look harder Ron!