M38 : OK, Boomer

[RICKG]

Whats goin on here??

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keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

[Xamon]

Just from looking at the pics I think that is the generator/alternator mount. Looks kinda cobbled up.
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Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[Naugha]

Don't know about the gen mount. That's part of the work done by the shop. Will check. Waiting for some gen bolts to come in.

Today at the barn.

Ron. Here is the fan/radiator alignment. I think it is OK.
Also. I took your advice on the dowel bolts. Score.



Thanks RickG.


More stuff done.


Hmmm.


Hmmm.


Hmmm. What would Ron do?

_________________
Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project

[RonD2]

Hi Don,
Glad you got the dowel bolts.

Curious. I see two hose outlets on your water pump. One is for the bypass to the head, the other is usually a cab heater. Are you running a cab heater in Florida?

Not sure what you're asking about the fuel pump.

Btw, I think you're going to have to turn that brass fitting on the oil filter line where it enters the block behind the fuel pump so it's right up against the front engine plate or mounting the fuel pump is going to fight you. And don't forget the thick spacer! It also help to turn the motor so the fuel pump cam lobe is on the low side.

What's with the short studs on the exhaust manifold?

Good luck!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[RICKG]

extended hex bolts? you have them? if not I can help.
_________________
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

[Naugha]

Rick. I have the hex bolts but am not sure about what to do with the vent lines.

Ron.
“Are you running a cab heater in Florida? “
The jeep came with a heater which I will not use. Amazing you could tell that from the pic. Anyone need a heater?

“Not sure what you're asking about the fuel pump.”
I am not sure what to do with the vent line fitting.

“I think you're going to have to turn that brass fitting on the oil filter line where it enters the block behind the fuel pump so it's right up against the front engine plate or mounting the fuel pump is going to fight you. And don't forget the thick spacer! It also help to turn the motor so the fuel pump cam lobe is on the low side.”. ........ Good advice.

“What's with the short studs on the exhaust manifold?”.

I often use the G503 videos to at least get me in the game. Scott S. starts his G503 manifold video #1 with a run down of the manifold studs used on the L-134 (MB). His vid lists three stud sizes.

The weird thing ..... the manifold studs in my ‘stash’ from three engines had those three different lengths..... so I used them.

* About the fuel pump vent lines. Which one of the fittings in my pics do I use? That last pic shows a fitting that looks like a substitute ‘stub off’ for the vent line ...but now we have stumbled into my total numb-numb zone.
_________________
Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project

[RonD2]

Hi Don,
If I understand the question correctly, the fuel pump is supposed to have either a check valve or a vent in that position --- or a hard line plumbed into the vent system. I don't remember where the distant end of the hard line goes because I'm not using that line, just a vent. This old post might help. Pretty sure MWM has both vent types in stock. http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=9850&highlight=7375063

No heater? You'll have to remove the hose bib and put a pipe plug in that hole on your water pump.

The main take-away on the manifold studs (like any fastener) is that it's supposed to be long enough to fully engage the nut threads, usually with at least 2-3 threads showing. I asked because yours look flush, which is short. I remember that manifold stud lengths are tricky. If need be, you can "adjust" the length out a bit by not seating the coarse threads all the way into the block.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[Naugha]

Bingo on the check valve (nipple, ball check, fitting, 7375063, special ???)

I remembered seeing that thread from a while back but could not remember the details and did not find it in a more recent search.

I will deal with vent lines later if they are needed. No fording planed.

Thanks Ron.
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project

[Xamon]

regarding vent lines: if using the military distributor you MUST have the vent line to it plumbed correctly. There is apparently an overheat / gas build up thing that goes on. I am sure Wes will either correct me or explain better.
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Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[wesk]

While on the distributor yes it has a vent system plumbed thru it to remove the ever collecting Ionized Gases which are explosive.

Also Don's military distributor is indexed (clocked) about 180 degrees off. The #12 wire nipple should point toward the fender and be at the aft end of the distributor when indexed correctly. This begs a thorough re-determination of the proper steps used to set up cam and ignition timing.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[Naugha]

“Also Don's military distributor is indexed (clocked) about 180 degrees off. “

Knowing many engine issues were beyond my skill set, I printed out the needed manual information useful to the mechanic and hired a local shop with top ratings to do the work, including mounting the distributer and timing. The shop regularly works on vintage autos but I guess not M-jeeps.

I will now attempt to explain to an expert where they went wrong. Oh, and the engine is now in the jeep which is at the barn 20mi from the shop and me without a car trailer.

Can’t win..... but it’s better to catch the big mistakes ASAP.

Thanks Wes.
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project

[RICKG]

at this point Don pulling the oil pump and properly indexing is an easy task if needed. right now is the dist "home", the timing at tdc? if so where is the rotor pointing.

You're welcome for the outer cap..
_________________
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

[Naugha]

Will look into the distributor issue later.

Today the devil and I threw down over the fuel pump install. He said I have poor technique. I said he had a pointy tail. All true. At the very end I gave the brass check valve fitting a final tweak and snapped the threads. Oh well. Another 'go back and fix'.



Other stuff.

Plug the water pump. Check.






A Top Dog or two would have this engine zipped up in a day.
_________________
Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project

[Naugha]

Here are some pics of the botched distributor.
Note the damaged rotor. Not sure if I somehow did that.

The mechanic had said he was going to remove the head in order to establish TDC. Will talk with him tomorrow after I hopefully understand more about what went wrong.










What a mess.
_________________
Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project

[RICKG]

nothing that cannot be overcome.
_________________
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a