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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Set Timing M38
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Set Timing M38
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before we start shot gunning the new problem let's get the basic info.

1-Did this problem exist before you did all the ignition work?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt your coil was the point burning culprit. My money says the condenser was the culprit.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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lee12
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Location: San Saba, Texas

PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a total rebuild, had all down to the frame. Had engine rebuilt, during process had carb rebuild, and distributer. Just finished reassembly. When I started and it started burning points (with original coil), it was turning the points green and causing pitting on the points. While the original coil was in it did have a replaced new condenser installed. It would start and idle great but as soon as any increase in throttle was introduced it would cut out and not run down the road but idle was still good. Now it runs great down the road but when you stop (hit the brakes) it dies. And the idle does the fluctuating. By that, it idles great then almost dies and then back out, then repeat.
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lee12
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry by rebuild I mean it wasn't running before for comparison.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didn't say who rebuilt it and what new parts were installed inside the engine. I would start with a compressions check. Do a leak down check if your compression checks indicate the need.

Then install a vacuum gauge and record vacuum readings during test.

If you aren't familiar with using a vacuum gauge, brush up at these sites:
http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/vacuum.html

http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2012/02/Testing-Engine-Vacuum/3709071.html
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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lee12
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll get started on that next week. Thanks Wes.
The rebuild was done locally and was a painful process that I don't want to have again. At the time of completion compression was good, but I'll look into it further.
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lee12
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im getting my hands on a compression tester but was curious, what size fits the spark plug hole? I have acquired a vacuum tester and will hook it up this afternoon just to see what it reads and how steady it is.

Cleaned the carb last night. I pulled the top off and the bowl did have a couple pieces of trash in it so removed and blew air through, replaced and it started up, and no longer fluxes at idle but is still rough. I guess its good that its at least a constant now.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

18 mm
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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