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Starting help
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wesk
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not quite sure what you are saying here:
Quote:
I get get it turn fire off now



The Solex is an OK fix for a guy who can't get a correct decent Carter YS637S.

They have their own idiosyncrasies . The choke system on the Solex is not what you are used to, It is called the "Starter Circuit" and instead of blocking incoming air like our chokes it enriches the mixture by adding more fuel for start. You must follow their setup instructions precisely. Also the Solex is designed for a low operating fuel pump pressure and often you must install an inline pressure regulator between the pump and carb to get her to work correctly.

What carb did you remove? What condition was it in?

This would be a good time to post a few of detailed underhood photos from both sides, the front and top.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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BlitzAttack
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Joined: Feb 19, 2010
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Location: McKinney,Texas

PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright Im done Evil or Very Mad its going to the shop!
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BullRun
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll jump in a give it a go on a diagnosis.

1) Give it a compression test and do a static timing of the engine. Are the spark plugs oily or dry? If the compression is too low it will never run correctly. Does it blow smoke? What is the compression average?
2) Check your fuel pump to see if it is too strong or weak. This is somewhat of a guess with out the proper tools but there should be moderate pressure nothing extreme either way.
3) Check your ignition wires and to see if they are on the wrong spark plugs.
4) Check your distributer cap for cracks or carbon tracks that can cause a misfire.
5) Does it backfire through the tail pipe or through the carb?
6) Does the Solex have an accelerator pump? if so it might be sticking.
7) How old is the fuel? New gas formulations when they go bad require you to clean out all the old fuel from the system.
Cool Do you have a stuck choke? or fuel rich or fuel starved system? Are the throttle linkages messed up?
9) Do you have a clogged exhaust system(mouse nest?) or valves cranked down so tight that the engine barely will turn over? More common than you would think!
10) Is the air cleaner plugged?
11) Are the contact points adjusted properly, What about the coil? the condenser?
12) Is everything grounded properly?

If you can get it to run do a timing light adjustment of the distributer.

I hope that helps... it will definitly keep you busy and save some money Very Happy
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BlitzAttack
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont know if this helps but here are some pics





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BullRun
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Based on the last picture it looks to me that your choke cable is not set up correctly? Is there a linkage missing for the butterfly?

Is it possible to engage the butterfly independent of the throttle with the choke cable? Commonly the choke cable would be attached to a separate linkage that controls the butterfly independent of the throttle.

If this set up is correct is this the correct Solex for a jeep as usually there would be an independent choke mechanism. The jeep is designed for independent choke and throttle controls. Here they look combined. Maybe that is the problem?

Just a guess.
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BlitzAttack
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Location: McKinney,Texas

PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BullRun wrote:
Based on the last picture it looks to me that your choke cable is not set up correctly? Is there a linkage missing for the butterfly?

Is it possible to engage the butterfly independent of the throttle with the choke cable? Commonly the choke cable would be attached to a separate linkage that controls the butterfly independent of the throttle.

If this set up is correct is this the correct Solex for a jeep as usually there would be an independent choke mechanism. The jeep is designed for independent choke and throttle controls. Here they look combined. Maybe that is the problem?

Just a guess.


that one is the throttle cable for the lever on the dash, the choke cable is on the other side.
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BullRun
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right that makes sense. So if the linkages are correct and this is the correct replacement carb and it is... the only other thing I could come up with is what Wes said about fuel pressure.

The info I found says it should be between 1 and 1/3 lbs. to 2 lbs. pressure from the fuel pump or the engine will flood or run badly. Putting an inline fuel pressure regulator and an inline fuel filter (for rubber dust and chips) were recommended as normal fuel pressure is too strong for this carb and the carb is sensitive to rubber dust or chips. Apparently this is a common problem. The regulator and filter fix this.

With these add-ons it is considered a great carb. That is probably the problem. I hope that helps!
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No choke cables on the jeep Solex's. Theyt have a cold start fuel enrichment system.

I would not consider the Solex a great carb. It is an adequate on road replacement for folks who can't seem to get a good, properly rebuilt and adjusted Carter YS950S or YS637S carb on their engine. It is not a good off road carb because it likes to be level. It has issues with cold starts in really cold climates.

I look at Solex carbs, electric fuel pumps, in line filters, 12 volt conversions and steering stabilizers as band aids for the real problems which the owner does not wish to deal with properly or is not capable of dealing with properly.

Blitz, I see you have the tiny CJ distributor, 12 volt starter (where did they put the solenoid), 12 volt alternator. Looks like the previous owner dumped the PCV system. I would suggest getting the PVC system hooked back up. Set the ignition points correctly. They are too wide in your photo. I would also move the coil to the two mount studs the CJ's normally mount them on.




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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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BlitzAttack
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I will try what you said wesk. As far as the solex goes i dont plan on off roading it and I live in texas so cold climates wont be an issue. It had a YF carb on it for some reason, I've still got it.

In one of the pics you can see the coil just beside the air cleaner. There is also some wires going to a resistor or something right beside it. Does that need to be there or would I have to move that with the coil?

Thanks
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The resistor is used with 6 volt coils or those 12 volt titled coils that have the statement "Use with external resistor" on them. It should stay on the firewall safe from heat and vibration. The coil should keep it's secondary (Fat) wire as short as possible so it should be mounted on the engine.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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BullRun
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good eye's Wes. I actually agree with you about the Solex carb and the other band aides. I always remove them if I find them on a jeep project. There are enough original parts floating around that it can be about the same price in the end to rebuild it to original than go forward with the replacement parts(especially if they need fixed), at least in my experience.

But before anymore time or money is spent I would still do a compression test to find out if the engine has enough compression to actually run... and if it is enough to run... is it enough to make the vehicle drivable in the sense of being able to actually go anywhere in the jeep at a normal speed.
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