Milky White paste inside of Oil fill neck

scrum

Guys I have been looking at this site for a year and gained a lot knowledge of what to do and what not to do. I bought a '64 M38A1 and have been slowly making it roadworthy. Did brakes, electrical and started to drive it more towards end of summer. I checked the oil last week and found this on the dipstick and the fill tube. At first I thought I blew the head gasket. My brother in law, who has helped me says its condensation in the oil because of a pvc valve issue. The F 134 engine does not have a pvc valve under the exhaust manifold, just a plate and a bolt. The pvc valve is on a hose between the top of the dipstick and a spot under the carb. The white stuff does not go past the pvc valve.

I did change the oil and filter last December when started working on the jeep and have only put 200m on it.

Help, please, Steve

I uploaded photos to my photo album.

skyjeep50 · Member Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois

Condensation in the oil will form a emulsion of oil and water that clings to the dipstick and filler tube - looks like a whitish or light brown-ish goo. If your engine has not been run up to an operating temperature hot enough to evaporate the water and does not have proper crankcase ventilation - yes, you will get some condensation.
_________________
1951 M38

wesk · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:35 am Post subject:

Bottom line is your goo is normal for a jeep with a proper PCV setup but not driven a lot for periods over 1/2 hour. Make sure the arrow for flow direction on your PCV valve faces the intake manifold.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

scrum · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 7:16 am Post subject:

Thanks Guys. I have not driven it for more than a 1/2 hour at a time. The couple of times I have driven 20-25 minutes the temp gauge only gets to 120-130. Could the thermostat be stuck open? Is that something I should replace?
Also should the pvc valve be between the oil filler cap and the intake manifold below the carb.? I will make sure it points towards the intake manifold. That's where mine is crudely put. Should there be some way for fresh air to get in? Maybe a hose from the oil bath air filter to the oil fill cap? From what I have read some of the F134 used closed pvc systems and some were open. Not sure I understand the different configurations.

Again thanks for the help
Steve

4x4M38 · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:43 am Post subject:

Steve,
All later F134's should have a closed PCV system.

Take a look at some of Wes' photos for proper crankcase ventilation
or search PCV and M38A1 for more info.

The engine should come up to operating temp in 30 minutes.
Could be stuck thermostat, gunk clogging the temp sender,
maybe a bad sender or gauge.

Start it with the cap off the rad and allow it to come up to temp
or at least level off on the gauge. Stick a thermometer in the rad
and compare. The other thing is to look at fluid circulation in the
rad. It can move around a little until the thermostat opens,
then obvious fluid movement through the radiator after.

If it starts moving fluid right after start up your thermostat
is probably stuck open.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

scrum · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:01 am Post subject:

Thank you Brian,

Good advise, I will try your suggestions tonight. I do appreciate the advise.

Steve

wesk · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:34 am Post subject:

Your M38A1 ORD 9 SNL G-758 parts manual and your TM 9-8015-1 M38A1 engine manual have very good illustrations of the correct M38A1 PCV valve setup. These are all available to you free in PDF format on our downloads page.

Here's what the ORD 9 shows:

This is a closed PCV system.

Closed ventillation system for Willys meant Not Open. Early willys products through the middle of WWII for military and the late 40's for civilian jeeps had an open road draft pipe system. All Willys / Kaiser military jeeps from Mid WWII and on had closed systems. All the civvy jeeps made the switch in the late 40's.

Early WWII open PCV systems

This is the engine as shown in the TM 9-8015-1 dated 1954:

Note the dipstick tube has two air inlets, one goes to a plain elbow in the valve cove and the other to the fording valve at the crossover pipe. This is a closed PCV System.

Here's a new in the crate 1962 M38A1 engine:

This is a closed PCV System.

This is a late 64 M38A1 Marine unit:

Note this jeep still has the fording valve and fresh air source is still the air cleaner but note the tube from the dipstick to the valve cover is no longer there. This is a closed PCV System.

This is the CJ5 & CJ6 & CJ3B engine PCV System:

This is also a closed PCV System.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

scrum · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:04 am Post subject:

Brian and Wes,
I replaced the pvc valve and hose to the intake manifold and she started right up. The old one was completely clogged. It also ran great and now idled correctly. It did not idle right before and I thought it was a carb. issue and was planning on rebuilding. Not now.

I also took off the rad. cap. Water flowed freely. Ran it for an hour and the temp. only got to 125. So I pulled the upper rad. hose and no thermostat. No Surprise.

The engine number on the head behind the water pump is MD136472 and my Vin is 95334. Does this help identify what the pvc set up should be? There is a fender washer and bolt under the exhaust manifold now. My thought is to replace it with the cone type with the correct pvc valve mounted there that you show in the pictures then run a hard line to the intake manifold. I would also run hose from the single outlet on the oil fill stack to the air intake. .....or should I just leave it alone? I did post a couple pics in my photo gallery.

Thanks again guys.

Steve

wesk · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:01 am Post subject:

Looks like your A1 was around an Oct 64 Marine unit. Engine is from the late 60's as well. The Marines re-equipped their A1's for fording so I would go with this edition:

Your jeep should have also come with the flat top air cleaner shown in the photo above.

On the left side of the engine the Marines used this:

_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

scrum · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:17 am Post subject:

Thanks for the input Wes. I think I will try and do that. After looking at your pics I thought that was the closest to what I have too. Looks like another winter project. Now I just have to collect all the parts. It looks like several vendors have the NOS available.

I also have to remove the Ross steering box and have it rebuilt. I took your advise from a very old post and took the jeep to a good front end mechanic. He told me what to fix and what to leave alone. Money well spent.

Steve

wesk · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:30 am Post subject:

The factory Ross service manual is on our downloads page. Combined with the jeep's chassis service manual they will get you through a rebuild.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

scrum · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:43 am Post subject:

Already on it. I printed them. It might be above my pay grade though. I spoke with AJP and may have them do it for me.

Steve

45auto · Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 6:41 pm Post subject:

Looking at your M38A1 serial number and engine number I noticed that your engine number falls right in line with what the original from the factory engine would have been.

There is no direct correlation with engine numbers to serial number other than seeing how the numbers are lining up overall. It is generally accepted that the first engine in the "holding room" was the last engine out. Also, If the engines were pulled from a group of like M38A1s, rebuilt and replace, they would not have been overly concerned of which engine went with which A1.

I can tell you that from the many late model A1s in my database, they all appear to have their original engines. By this time, it wasn't long before the Marines were forced to start buying M151s and these late model Al more than likely didn't see much service.

Anyway, If the original engine means anything to you, I would treat the one you have as the one from the factory. On another note, I read an article on collector cars and matching numbers and for such things as alternators, starters and such, they look for cases that have serial numbers in the correct range to have a "matching numbers car" Of course, those number that should be the same should be. The M38A1 serial number and engine number were never the same and to have a "matching numbers" vehicle (according to this article) you would only need to have an engine with a number in the correct range. Your engine number is in this range. This would also apply to generators, starters and distributor. Lucky for us, these are date coded and makes finding the one in the correct range a bit easier.

We are way behind the collector car hobby, but I keep up with these numbers anyway.
_________________
Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6

scrum · Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 8:06 am Post subject:

Harold,

Thanks for the information and observations. I will be careful with what I do. The engine runs strong and its a different color green. I could not find evidence of the fording equipment except with the electrical connectors which were in very bad shape. I removed what was left and saved them. It had been partially converted to 12v when I got it...alternator, starter and starter solenoid. I put in a new wiring harness non-A1. There were no data plates or numbered tag behind the seat so I don't have much info to work with. Its great someone is keeping track of the numbers.

Appreciate the help.

Steve

4x4M38 · Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:19 am Post subject:

Steve,
I think I read here somewhere some A1 owners have found numbers
stamped into the left frame rail between the grille and bumper.
We M38 owners have not been quite so lucky.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php


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