Cleaning fuel pump and carb castings for rebuild

[53a1]

I scored three M38 fuel pumps and a carb at a jeep yard sale. What's the proper way to get the castings pretty for rebuild?

Thanks.
Dave

[wesk]

Pretty or functional or both?

1-Function-All access plugs and caps removed and all interior parts removed. Soak for at least 24 hours in carb cleaner. The submerged can system. Using the system diagrams in the TM 9-1828A (Fuel Pumps) & TM 9-1826A (Carter Carbs) clear every passageway.

2-Pretty-Electroplate housings.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[GPA]

You can expect good results if you put the carb body into an ultrasound cleaning machine.

[wesk]

With the same fluid. The ultrasound will accelerate the cleaning. In one day you will have completed three days of soaking. But you will need access to a machine. Hot caustic commercial cleaning system do very good but again you must have access to the equipment.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[GPA]

Hi,
I see it, access to a machine is the problem. Small ultrasound machines are available for a reasonable price here. Check out the situation price wise Wes. Usually everything is cheaper in the U.S. but this machine could be the exception. If you do carbs and similar things often and need one, I can look around for a good deal and send you one. But there is the 220/110V difference.
Zoli

[wesk]

Thanks for the offer Zoli, but I have access to all the machinery I need. I do this for a living. It's the original poster who would need the equipment.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[53a1]

Thanks for the info. What about silica blast? I took my pump appart this evening. It was pretty easy.

[53a1]

Do I need to seal the casting with paint or something if I were to silica blast it?

Thanks.

[wesk]

NO-NO-NO! Fine dirt and dust is the most notorious enemy of passageways in the carb. I would never deliberately introduce any fine powder or dust to any carb. Use liquid solvents and dry compressed air or notrogen only.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[53a1]

Good advice. I will remove the linkage parts and do those only. The cast iron bottom part is rusted like most are and I wish I could do that part.

How about the fuel pump castings Wesk?

I have it appart and there are no small holes. Looking at the condition of the casting after cleaning I think a fine silica blast is the only thing that would work. I will only do the external surfaces so I don't bother the surfaces the check valves sit in.

Thanks.
David

[wesk]

The size of the hole is not the issue. The fine silt deposits end op coating the entire unit externally and internally. Compressed air will not remove them and liguid cleansers will cause a lot of it to migrate and collect at restrictions in those passageways. If you soak the body long enough in the correct solution it will emerge spotless. The gallon cans of Carb cleaner are available for about $14 and have a dip basket with them. Although this process is new to you many of us have been cleaning and rebuilding carbs since the 50's. It works when you do it right.

For the lower cast iron body simply use a strong rust remover like Naval Jelly.

As Zole mentions the Ultrasonic cleaner tanks finish the process in hours that normally takes several days worth of soaking.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[53a1]

Thanks Wesk.

I'll try the carb cleaner but the guy at NAPA said the stuff they sell now is so weak you may as well use kerosene or gasolene and it costs 29.00 bucks for a gallon

[wesk]

[Keith]

I just rebuilt my M38 carb and fuel/vacuum pump and used Gunk carb cleaner (w/basket) from local parts store (~$20). Was happily surprised at how well it removed rust from bolts, linkages, hardware, etc - almost to original - after soaking for ~3-4 days. It also removed all other deposits with minimal scrubbing which I performed about once each day. Good luck.

[GPA]

I have used American made Gunk about 15 years ago and before and it was a good product, it did remove most of the deposits overnight from carbs to be overhauled. Then came the "new formula". We were told the old stuff was too strong, dangerous and not friendly to the enviro. Only problem was it did not work anymore. This is the reason for 3-4 days of soaking time. I am using a product here called Super-Kromofag. It is made for paint removal. We are not talking about days of soaking, not even hours, but minutes. Producer recommends 5 minutes, but 2-4 is enough (when liquid is fresh). It does remove everything, without damageing the surfaces. Its smells same as the old Gunk from memory, but my nose is not a german shephards'. Cleaned parts look like new. For copper or brass parts I am using another product made by a company specialized for making kitchen/bathroom cleaning products. Soaking time is about 2 minutes and gold/copper/brass becomes bright original color, if you leave it longer it turns a little darker. You guys should check some industrial or domestic cleaners not just those made for automotive use.