F 134 Pistons

[Sadler5]

I need some advice (options). I have an F134 that has been bored to .040. It had water in it and caused some corrosion before I got it. It had a stuck piston and a couple of bent push rods (I don't know how the push rods got bent). I got everything unstuck and am in the process of taking measurements. I honed each cylinder out and actually they look pretty good. I found the specs on the piston that was standard 3.125. If I add .040 to that I get 3.165. My measurements inside the cylinder (although I have not taken the numerous I plan on taking seems to be consistently around 3.173. If I read the specs right can have maximum clearance of piston to cylinder wall slightly more than .008. My math comes out at .008 which I believe is the maximum. Should I put new pistons and rings in that are .040 over like I am taking out if the tolerances are that close to the maximum allowed?

The other thing I have is the pistons have 4 ring grooves. The top groove has corrosion in it. I don't know what that is. Can someone answer that. I removed one of the rings and checked the gap. It was .070. That bothers me although it is a used ring and not a new one that I would put back in if I go further. This engine has a remanufactured plate on it so I am assuming it was rebuilt correctly but that may be a wrong assumption. Thanks for any help.
Bob

[53a1]

I'm in the same situation.

A machinist said he recommends sleeving a block that has pitting. He said the corrosion goes a lot deeper than visible. If you are already .040 over and have pitting you may want to sleeve it. If you end up cracking a cylinder wall, your engine will be toast.

[Sadler5]

Thanks for the advice. I was told you could go .060 over but I have not talked to anybody that actually has. Actually I think it was Wes that told me that which would certainly be credible. I don't want to sound like I am trying to scab this repair but I would like to get by with minimal costs. Boring or sleeving can not happen on my budget for this engine where pistons and or rings could. So if that will not work for the tolerances I have I would have to junk the engine.
Bob

[53a1]

What the machinist told me is you can go .060 on sound cast iron but it is so pourous that any deep pitting (maybe .010) tends to go deeper in the metal. I think he is covering his butt which I can't blame him. He quoted me 300 to bore, sleeve and deck and bore out to stock size (3.125). I already have some new stock piston & rings so I don't have to worry about that.

The whole rebuild was quoted at 1250.00 which is way out of my range at this time but I'm mostly in research mode at this time. I'll proabably hold on to my block until I'm ready or find a better one.