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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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 Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 4:40 pm Post subject: M38 tailgate pics |
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Does anyone have some good pics of a bare (no gas can or spare attached) M38 tailgate in stock configuration?
Thanks,
Brett
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Brett
'51 M38
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
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Location: Wisconsin
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you Wes, just what I needed. And with the measurements on there, including the the gerry can bracket will help me fab one up since mine is missing.
Take a look at this mess. I knew I had a mess before I dug in because I could see the weave of the fiberglass. I also knew I'd be doing some fab work here but I decided to dig it all out anyway just to see how bad it was or how creative PO was. Fiberglass and resin was stuffed in the cavity then the whole thing was wrapped in fiber then bondo. The black smoke makes it look even worse, not that any of it is good though.
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Brett
'51 M38
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oilleaker1
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Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Go to the CJ2A page, member created parts, tailgate repair. Buy a type A or B. Well worth the money. You have to drill the spots on the lower gas and tire brackets, but it is the best fix available. You can't tell it from original. Some of these metal fab guys are amazing. AND--------it's made in the USA for real, no MD Juan  John |
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evanso1975
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Posts: 615
Location: North Yorkshire, UK
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oilleaker1
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Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:30 am Post subject: |
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| Same guy, cheaper through the 2A page. He sells direct to "Jeep Guys". Mine is welded in. You cut out the old and butt weld above the hinge. Hardest part is keeping it tight, flat, and then the grinding of your weld. If you could tig it, it would be much easier to grind the weld than Mig. My 2 cents anyway. John |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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Ya, I have already made contact with Mike to get one. Thanks though. 
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Last edited by Bretto on Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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| oilleaker1 wrote: | | You have to drill the spots on the lower gas and tire brackets |
What do you mean by that John? Is only the lower 2" of the gate. The mounts are a few inches above that.
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Brett
'51 M38
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oilleaker1
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Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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| The new bottom repair piece actually rests on top of those angle braces that reinforce the inside surface of the tailgate. There are spotwelds in that area. You will see what I mean when you get your new bottom repair. I center punched and used a spot weld cutter to release the spots. Then clamped and re-welded. The CJ2A/3A/3B don't have the braces like the M38. John |
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Bretto
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Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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Oh yes I see what you mean. I thought you were talking about the actual holes that go thru for the bolts for the mounts.
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Brett
'51 M38
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oilleaker1
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Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:10 am Post subject: |
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The hinge pins on mine were held with a plug round weld up from the bottom and a spot on the ends. I discovered that the flats are vertical with the plane of the tailgate. You can drill the plugs or grind them to release the pins for re-use. A die grinder was used to cut the old bottom off with the thin cutoff disc following a clear mark in red grease pencil. I used a bunch of c clamps to hold it flat to the gate. The hardest part is grinding your weld on the face. Not much room between the round stamping and new bottom repair. I welded from the inside and found the weld pool smaller on the face that way. The channels for the spare and gas can carriers are a bit of a challenge. A die grinder with a thin cut-off disc will keep the heat to a minimum on the thick stuff, and then a die grinder with a small screw-on sanding disc for the finish. Then a small application of " leveling compound "  . OD green is a bodyman's friend. Matching the concours patina is easy to master. It's just a little green Jeep. The fit and match are as close to perfect as you can get. Very happy with it. John |
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Bretto
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Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:04 am Post subject: |
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I ended up making more work for myself and drilled out all the spot welds and took off all the reinforcements. I did this just so I was able to bang out some dents I would of not been able to get to otherwise. This will also allow me to get to all the weld for the bottom replacement peice. Hopefully I will get to weld in the new peice this weekend.
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Brett
'51 M38
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:22 am Post subject: |
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Made progress over the weekend on the gate. Bottom is now fixed and I added a bracket for the spare tank strap. I need to clean up the reinforcement brackets and get them welded back on.
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Brett
'51 M38
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SledDog
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Joined: Aug 14, 2011
Posts: 91
Location: Litchfield Park Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:42 am Post subject: |
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Are these repair parts still available anywhere?
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-Steve
'52 M38 MC68149 |
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evanso1975
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