Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:14 pm Post subject: I'm replacing the keyed ignition switch
with the correct on/off lever instead. I bought a 4 plug Packard connector style switch from John at Midwest Military. Does anyone know which input is for the hot wire from the battery? I take it the rest are accessory and distributor lines? _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 3:20 am Post subject:
Alright, that one I posted if off google. I didn't realize the difference, until I noticed mine doesn't have letters on the back. So, I don't know what A and C are on mine. Do they both get power from the battery (as in, do I need to split the power)? One goes out to the coil/distributor, do I need to join the rest into one accessory line (I have a heater)?
_________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Get a decent magnifying glass. The numbers are in the rubber. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 12:50 pm Post subject:
They aren't. I've looked all over, and even inside the packard connections. I guess I could try it connection by connection with a circuit testor. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Look at the first photo. It shows that with the switch installed per it's index notch the top of the switch has A&B and the bottom B&C.
Now just follow the guide below.
Remember the military wire numbers are in your TM 9-8012 for the M38 and 9-8014 for the M38A1. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 11:29 pm Post subject:
So, if A and C are hot leads from the battery, do I need to split the one existing line I have to the current switch into two lines, one for A and one for C? I take it I definitely have to splice the heater line into the dash lights line as well. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 5:49 am Post subject:
Yes.
The dash switch is a DPST switch so in other words its 2 on-off switches controlled by one lever. You have to run battery to both A&C
Brett _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:19 am Post subject:
I can't find the harness from anyone, so I bought the packard connectors I'll need from Saturn Surplus. I have plenty of 24 Volt wire left from my turn signal kit. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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