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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Rear Hub Key
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Rear Hub Key
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aforests
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Joined: Oct 06, 2014
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:09 am    Post subject: Rear Hub Key Reply with quote

I am installing the right rear hub and drum after working on axle, etc. The hub is new. I am trying to get the key to go in, but it is going in very hard. As you can see from the picture below, it took a couple good blows from a hammer to get it that far, but I stopped as it seems like it is going in way to hard. Any suggestions on this?

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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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buzzk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:33 am    Post subject: key Reply with quote

looks to me you have the wrong key, is it tapered, the taper goes down and towards the axle buzzzz
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aforests
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is the same key that came out when I took everything apart. I inserted it the way it shows in the parts manual. All I can think is the new hub has something to do with it.


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Aaron
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before risking a cracked hub by forcing the same key that I took out back into a new hub I would buy a new key and lay them side by side and see what the problem is. Anyone before you could have filed the old hub out and made that key fit. I assume you have thoroughly cleaned the key and the grooves and have put some anti-seize on the key or grooves.
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Wes K
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aforests
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will have to try a new key. I have thoroughly cleaned everything and have used anti seize on the key and grooves...
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Aaron
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try to keep in mind that the key does not hold the drum on. It simply prevents the drum from rotating on the axle. The tapered axle's angle and the drum angle do the interference and stick that is needed to keep the hub on and the nut backs that up. The key should not need anything more than a light tap to insert it.
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Wes K
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aforests
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have measurements of the proper key I can use to compare?
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Aaron
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aforests
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never mind on dimensions, found that they should be .3175x .250x 2 7/8"
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Aaron
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did you find the dimensions? How do they compare to your key?
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Wes K
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aforests
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will measure and compare tonight when I get home from work. Surplus City had the measurements for the key #636374
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Aaron
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RICKG
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aforests wrote:
Never mind on dimensions, found that they should be .3175x .250x 2 7/8"


AAron, did you mean .3125 (5/16) not .3175?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dimensions in the M38 ORD 9 page 233 are 0.3175 x 0.250 x 2 7/8" long also.
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Wes K
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RICKG
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk wrote:
The dimensions in the M38 ORD 9 page 233 are 0.3175 x 0.250 x 2 7/8" long also.

That is an odd dimension isn't it..
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OKCM38CDN
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Key goes in with the tapered portion in and down so as to fit in the tapered portion of the axle...

Also I have found you put the key in first then slide the hub over the key and tighten with the nut and washer till snug and tighten to proper torque and insert the cotter pin...

I just completed my M-38A1 rear Dana 44 and that is how it went together...

Hope this helps...
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Last edited by OKCM38CDN on Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you research a little more on the torque on the axle nut, it is a bit more than snug. It calls for 150 Foot Pounds. Wink


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Wes K
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