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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:52 am Post subject: Body steel gage |
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Per TM9-1804B:
"All major panels are
of No 18 gage steel."
Is this to say that the floors are 18? Would it be recommended or overkill to buy 16. I would rather just buy one large sheet and would rather it be 18 because I see it being a little bit easier to work with. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16267 Location: Wisconsin
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Balvar24 Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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The hat channels are supposed to have wood in them? |
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, they came from the factory that way but 60 yrs later
the wood is usually rotted away. Unless you are replacing floors
you can't access the interior of the hats to replace the wood. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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Was the wood there just to prevent the mounting bolts from crushing the floor panels or to add rigidity. Or both? From what I've seen, repo's just have a section of tubing where the body mount bolts go thru. Perhaps they (some) are using heavier material to compensate for no wood. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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I think both, Brett. Looking at it now it seems foolish
to use wood-but remember no one was counting on
any if these rigs to be around 60 yrs later. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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BullRun Member
Joined: Mar 10, 2009 Posts: 459
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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The only part I have ever found on the A1 that is not 18 GA. is the floor riser which is 16 GA. It is important because it creates the rigidness in the tub. For body panels it's overkill.
The wood inserts I always have thought were pretty clever. The Willys engineers were genuis at what they were able to do. |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16267 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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Steel and aluminum being valued products in wartime Willys managed to reduce the thickness of the hat channels and front bumper by reinforcing with wood. This reduced steel consumption.
For a factory class resto they are necessary but otherwise I would use the short pieces of tubing to prevent crushing when tightening the body mount bolts. The 18 gauge floors were a wartime compromise as well and do much better with 16 gauge. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:47 am Post subject: |
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I went to local sheet metal fab shop in town yesterday and got 2 sheets for the floor and enough lengths of hat channel made to fabricate and replace all of the existing rusted out stuff. They were able to make both sizes of hat channel. All out of 16 ga cold rolled steel. Should be stout! They also threw in some misc 18ga sheet for some body repair. Nice guys, must be why they have been around for 110 years.
All for $60 _________________ Brett
'51 M38
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4x4M38 Member
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16267 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Adding the labor and PITA for something unseen when the jeep is displayed is hardly worth it. If one is going to put forth that much effort when the additional strength is not needed and a factory resto is the goal then do it right and use the correct wood product.
The only place this idea would make any sense is the bumper reinforcement. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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4x4M38 Member
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Wes,
I was wondering if the extra strength was necessary on a daily
driver and one that would see some off roading. The twisting and
flexing was what I was trying to reduce.
I will replace the old oak bumper reinforcement with another
piece of oak. I have some laying around and can cut and drill it.
I will treat it like railroads used to treat wood on the old cars,
with several coats of boiled linseed oil, then oil based paint.
That one you can see.
Thanks, _________________ Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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