M38 Distributor and Timing

[j3shane]

Have a 51 M38 that was converted to 12V but the waterproof 24V distributor remains installed and converted to external 12V coil. Set screw came loosed and timing got hosed so working on getting it re-timed.

While i have it down wanted to replace the distributor cap and points and get everything set correctly. Confused on what parts I need for the distributor. See Kaiser has a overhaul kit and points for the 24V, which will fit, just not sure if the electrical component included will work with the 12V system?

Also, plug wires were incorrect so set per diagrams in this forum to #1 at lower, then 3,4,2 counter clockwise. Just backfires now, hence wanting to get new points, caps to rule that out. Getting fire (at least on #1) so not sure if I should mess with the external coil.

Any insights into the hybrid 12V conversion? The external coil wire runs inside the magneto and connects directly to the spring on the leg of the cap.

Also, the engine has the timing bump on the front and mark on the pulley.

Thanks all!

[Xamon]

for hooking up the plug wires, some of the manuals have the wires listed incorrectly in the diagrams, there is a corrected version in Wesk photo album.
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Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[wesk]

You did not tell us wether or not you have removed the entire distributor from the block.

You did not tell us the actual condition of the current rotor, inner cap, points and condenser.

If it was running ok then ran poorly after the timing screw got loose then the wires were in the correct order for they way that distributor was indexed on it's installation. Put them back where they were. Re-time the distributor, run it a while and then decide if any parts actually need replacing.

The plug wire order photos only apply to a distributor that was properly aligned with the oil pump on it's last installation. If your distributor was installed by someone who ignored this oil pump alignment issue then the wires were arranged to place # 1 where the rotor was pointing with #1 cylinder TDC on compression stroke.

The problem with not properly indexing a distributor/oil pump is you often end up with the position of the distributor's outer housing hitting the block before proper timing can be reached. This is why the procedure for indexing the oil pump FIRST to the correct index with #1 cylinder at TDC on compression is required then the distributor will only fit into the oil pump one way, THE RIGHT WAY!

If you do not wish to keep the engine bone stock, IE you want a driver not a show jeep, then the simplist solution is to buy a stock round L134 civilian distributor (which doesn't have the odd shaped housing that can hit the block when timing) and save a small fortune on the cost of the military spark plugs and use a civvy harness and plugs with your already civvy coil.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[j3shane]

Thanks for the info Wes. I have not removed the distributor from the block. Not sure on the condition of the inner components as I don't really have anything to compare it to. To me they look ok.

Will put cables back for now and re-time to see how it goes. Read a lot today so have a much better understanding of how the timing stuff works from end to end.

Have thought about installing a civvy distributor but the magneto and the cables look so darn tough. May head that direction if I don't get this going, hits the block, etc....