Transmission Hump Needed

randy · Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 10:23 am Post subject: Transmission Hump Needed

I sand blasted my tub and the tranny hump is pretty bad. Anyone out there parting out a tub? Or any sugestions.
Thanks in advance.

randy · Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 10:28 am Post subject:

It is a M38 I am working on.

wesk · Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:13 pm Post subject:

M38 and M38A1 are the same. The Early CJ5 can be used as well.

Upper tranny cover.

Lower tranny cover

Tranny cane cover.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

randy · Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 4:48 pm Post subject:

Thanks Wes. I wasn't clear enough. It's not any of the bolt ons.I'm looking the portion with the the PTO hole rearward. So it is actually the center portion of the main floor pan. I realize this will be hard to come up with but thought I'd ask. Thanks.

wesk · Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 8:27 pm Post subject:

How much of this section do you need?

_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

BullRun · Member Joined: Mar 10, 2009 Posts: 459

If you can weld or even sort of weld your best bet is to repair it yourself with patch panels. Or have someone who does metal autobody repair fix it. This area could be repaired in an afternoon by a skilled fabricator maybe a day by someone not so skilled.

I am not aware of anyone offering a replacement panel for this area except as a full floor. To cut up another body for this sheet metal is too time consuming I think and unnecessary as it can be fixed as long as it is not completely rusted away.

While very tedious to repair, if someone takes their time to do it right in the end know one will ever know it was repaired.

If you need welding advise just ask. Not really an answer but hope it helps.

hillbilly21 · Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 6:31 am Post subject: hump

I got one attached to a M38 I want to sell 2750.00 with title running

Scott21 · Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:52 am Post subject:

http://www.swracecars.com/store/Steel-Front-Floor-and-Tunnel-Kit-OSCARItem_184=95-116.aspx

Try one of these

Scott

wesk · Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:20 am Post subject:

It would take a lot more effort to modify that to fit then it would to repair the original or graft on a used part.

The hump section needed can be used from any CJ2A, CJ3A or CJ3B floor. With such a large possible donor base you should be able to find one soon.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

randy · Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:30 pm Post subject:

The portion under the tool box is the worst.What is left is very thin. Just looking for an easy way out. I can live with everything else.Floor pans and complete hat channels from MWM are top notch. I will try to post photos, I've haven't done it before.

randy · Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:36 pm Post subject:

Try not to laugh.

BullRun · Member Joined: Mar 10, 2009 Posts: 459

That looks like a pretty straight forward repair.

Find a steel yard that will sell off-cuts of 18 gauge mild steel big enough to cover the area being repaired. Get some poster board and fold it to fit the piece cut out. Hold it in place while you trace the outline of the metal piece cut out. Put a dashed line where the folds are in the metal onto the paper. Cut out the poster board outline with scissors.

Lay the flattened piece of poster board onto the 18 gauge mild steel and transfer the outline. Mark the ends of the dashed lines onto the edges of the outline. Remove the paper template and with a straight edge transfer the dashed line across the steel sheet with a marker. Cut the metal to size with a jig saw.

Get some 1 x 3's of wood and some clamps and fasten the edge of the wood on both sides of the metal sheet along the dashed line. Hold one side and bend the sheet to the correct angle. Reverse and repeat to get the other angles. Make it fit.

About an hours work and you are done. This is the low buck way and simplified but thats about it. Maybe $20 for metal. Weld, pop rivet or even fiberglass or body adhesives are methods people have used for repairs like this but I can only recommend welding it once and being done with it.

Check out some hotrod sheet metal books to get a better idea of what I have written. You can get a like new jeep body by doing this method but it does take time. Hope that helps.

BullRun · Member Joined: Mar 10, 2009 Posts: 459

For the swiss cheese areas of the floor you will have to do the same thing but with smaller amounts of metal. Use a vise and wood and clamps and you can get these other areas too.

Some tricks of the trade are to use a tailors tape for measuring curves, welders markers, straight edges, body hammers and dolly's, argon shielded MIG welding and butt welds on the joints.

If it is all done properly it will be undetectible and like new when finished.

And, anybody can learn this stuff if motivated. Hotrodders have been doing it for decades and are a great resource for information and techniques.

whydahdvr · Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 4:54 am Post subject:

There was an article in the April/May Supply Line magazine of MVPA that covered how to repair the "swiss cheese" of the metal. Grab a copy and check out starting at page 4 - some great ideas and directions.


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