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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:15 am Post subject: hood hinge question |
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I took the hinge off my unusable hood in order to use it on my replacement hood. After taking it off, I noticed that the mid section of the rear hat channel where the hinge was spot welded is stamped with an up/down fashion like a castle edge if you will. I dont have a picture at the moment. Its kind of like this:
-----______-------______-------______-------______------
Anyone know what ithe purpose is behind this? _________________ Brett
'51 M38
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:46 am Post subject: |
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Anyone have any thoughts?
My replacement hood is a 2A and it doesn't have those bumps stamped. The hinge on a 2A is integrated into the hat channel. My plan is to cut off the 2A hinge and plug weld the M38 hinge on top of its hat channel. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:40 am Post subject: |
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I compared my MDJ repop hood (which fits poorly at best) to my
orig junk stock hood. The "scallops" you show are also evident
on my stock hood. The repop hood does not have this feature
and the hinge is spot welded to the flat hat surface as you have
stated you intended to do with your hood rebuild. The difference
as i see it is the aprox 1/8" offset between the hinge and the hood surface.
With that in mind i believe my repop hood would have
slightly better fitment with the offset as it rubs the cowl as it is now.
You may consider fabing a spacer to duplicate the offset after
checking your rebuilt hood for fit. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:19 am Post subject: |
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I wonder if it has something to do with providing a flat spot for the hinge to sit on to offset the slight curverature of the hood. If you look close at my pic at the 1st outer step's edge where the rust starts, that is at the same level as the rest of the hat channel. Its not till it hits the inner edge of that 1st rust mark that it makes it first step. Then the others look progressively taller then taper off again to the other side.
But with that, it doesnt make sense to me that the other models dont have the same feature. Maybe they did it another way. I'll have to look closer at the 2A hood. I know that they used a 3 section hat channel with the hinge integrated into the middle section. I wonder if there is gap in that section between the hood and hat. I'll look tonight. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:01 am Post subject: |
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Ok the 2A hood has no gap there but the hat channel in that section is totally flat when when I put a ruler on it. Im just going to zap the hinge to it and be done with it. The only thing that will be noticeably different when all is done is the hat channel.
Another question I had regarding the hood. On the cut out for the power and fording, I see some have a filler peice there with 2 mouting holes outboard of the opening. Was that an after service mod in the civy world or did that ever show up while the rigs where still in service with the power receptacle removed? _________________ Brett
'51 M38
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:41 am Post subject: |
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If youre not gonna run fording kit and power recpt you should
have the filler in place. Mine had the filler in place
when i brought it home but i dont
know if it was there when surplused. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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evanso1975 Member
Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
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