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starting problems

 
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circleburner12
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Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 385
Location: arkansas

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 8:36 pm    Post subject: starting problems Reply with quote

im not getting any fire to the plugs, very little if any at times. new dist cap, points,plugs, condenser. timing is correct, per the tm's. the coil is used and thats what we are leaning towards is a bad coil. any ideas???. thxs
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1953 m38a1 1953 m100
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16253
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either ohm out the coil, do an amperage draw check on the coil, or take the coil to a shop with a coil tester.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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circleburner12
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Joined: May 16, 2011
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Location: arkansas

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how do you do a ohm test on the coil, bench test or i can hook the batts up if its better that way. ive look through the manuals and cant seem to find a how too. all i can find is to test the coil with suitable equipment!. ive also look search funtion several pages of it all i see is everthing but what im looking for or not a clear way of testing a coil. and no i dont have a coil test place around me. if anyone can help me out, please pm me with a simple way to test this coil. thxs
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jimm
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Joined: Nov 01, 2011
Posts: 199
Location: Escondido, CA

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An automotive coil is actually a transformer with two coils in one package: a low voltage primary coil with few turns, and a high voltage secondary coil with many turns. Both coils share a common input terminal; the output terminal of the primary coil goes to the points and from there to chassis ground, the output terminal of the secondary coil is the high tension lead to the distributor. Checking input to output of each coil with an ohmmeter, you should have continuity (no open circuit, or infinite resistance), and somewhere around 1000 times more resistance on the secondary than on the primary (due to the more turns), and neither should be zero resistance. You need a decent ohmmeter, though, because the primary coil resistance is only somewhere around 1 Ohm. I don't know the numbers for the 24V coils used on our MVs, but here is an example for a "typical" automotive coil: http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-electrical-system/how-to-test-an-ignition-coil.cfm
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
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circleburner12
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Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 385
Location: arkansas

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thxs jim, went and pick up a tester and tested the coil. if the selecter switch is in the correct position, by coil is reading 0.0 for the primary and 11.0 for the secondary. so would it be correct to assume the coil is bad??. thxs
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wesk
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The how to is clearly shown in TM 9-1825B which is free for you to download from our downloads page. Coil testing has been covered in at least 10 or more posts the last two years.

I've had this photo on the album page for 5 or 6 years.



If you test was performed correctly and the tester had the necessary accuracy level then you have a shorted primary circuit.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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