Joined: Jun 17, 2010 Posts: 9 Location: Ontario, Oregon
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:06 pm Post subject: Helicopter Mechanic's attempt at an M38
I have been a member of this site for quite a while, and have enjoyed the research I have been able to do on this site, you guys are great! I finally bought an M38 project a while ago, but I am finally now getting to really work on it. I've been overhauling helicopters for years now and can't wait to get this one finished! For starters I only know two things about this jeep, someone tried to turn it into a rock crawler (I know, sad huh!) and that it only had one plate on it, thankfully the Serial Number plate on the right rear wheel well! SN is MC 44891. It is already tital'ed but under the VIN of RMC 115414. My intentions are to restore it as a US Navy flight line jeep from NAS Whidbey Island (since I work on the flight line, although in Oregon, and I want to pay tribute to a Pacific NW military location). Meanwhile I am missing many parts and have a lot of damage to repair, namely the attempts by whom ever tried to turn it into a rock crawler. Thanks everyone for a great site where I can share my project and ask for help!!!
Jeffrey Hale
Last edited by JeffreyHalesM38 on Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 971 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:11 pm Post subject:
Navy Jeeps look cool. Do it! That title number is a replacement engine Number. Look behind the waterpump up top where the small flat of the block deck or top protrudes. They stamped the number there. That's assuming you have the flathead engine in it still. John
Joined: Jun 17, 2010 Posts: 9 Location: Ontario, Oregon
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:33 pm Post subject:
Wish I had the original engine, someone removed the original and the original voltage regulator mount and engine mounts. They welded in mounts for a small block Chevy and converted the T90 for one as well. Lets see they also added a modern steering column and steering gearbox, a winch plate, 12 volt wiring, gate hinges for hood hinges, cheaply welded closed my cowl battery box, and added 20+ pounds of bondo. It's fun! I have an extra T90 with the right adapter, and an L134 from a different jeep, and just picked up a new voltage regulator, and the correct motor mounts.
Jeffrey Hale
Last edited by JeffreyHalesM38 on Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
It can't be much harder than rebuilding a helicopter
That depends on which make/model helicopter.
Welcome aboard Jeff. Looks like you also have an extra CJ frame. Unless you want a show type resto that saginaw steering is light years ahead of the old Ross steering box.
Many states used the engine serial for titles years ago. Before you have too much time and money in it I would feel around your state MV outfits for what it takes to correct the serial on the title to match your tub serial instead of the old engine serial. Usually simply stating that the engine shown on the title has been swapped to a Chevy V8 and now you want to put a stock L134 engine in it. Or take the easy route and if your L134 serial number on the ledge above the water pumps has been ground off during a decking of the block then just stamp the RMC115414 on it and press on.
This is how it should look.
I have a wee bit of time around helicopters myself. A year on Hueys (Crew Chief), and after I retired from heavies in the USAF I have been a GA A&P/IA running my own shop and have maintained a few helicopters out here. Hughes 500, Bell 47, Robinson's and currently an Enstrom. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 971 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:16 am Post subject:
I see you are not afraid to get right in there! You may look around for a M38 that pops up with not title and make one out of the two. They frequently do show up. Watch ewillys.com and craigslist. Is that a flashlight next to your grinder? Glad you have a good respirator. John
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1740 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:56 am Post subject:
Hi Jeff. I see you're from Ontario so i'm sure you're familiar with the
Idaho Motor Pool just across the state line in Fruitland Id. Great guys
and headquarters for IMVPA. There's a great MV rally there in June,
come on over!
I travel thru Ontario now and then.
Maybe next time I can swing by and talk "willeze" with ya. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 12:22 pm Post subject:
I'm guessing you don't have gray hair and that is just dust, but you may have some by the time you are done but it will be fun. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Joined: Jun 17, 2010 Posts: 9 Location: Ontario, Oregon
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 6:09 pm Post subject:
leecarr wrote:
It can't be much harder than rebuilding a helicopter, probably not much rust repair on a helicopter though. Good luck and post some pics (of both).
Leecarr, Depends on the helicopter! I'll get some pictures of both on here soon.
wesk wrote:
Unless you want a show type resto that saginaw steering is light years ahead of the old Ross steering box...Or take the easy route and if your L134 serial number on the ledge above the water pumps has been ground off during a decking of the block then just stamp the RMC115414 on it and press on....I have a wee bit of time around helicopters myself. A year on Hueys (Crew Chief), and after I retired from heavies in the USAF I have been a GA A&P/IA running my own shop and have maintained a few helicopters out here. Hughes 500, Bell 47, Robinson's and currently an Enstrom.
Thanks Wesk. The frame was a CJ3A I picked up earlier but decided against using, and I don't like the current steering box but I am not sure how I want to tackle that mess yet. Thanks for the idea on the engine. I have a L134 from 1948 (picked up before I got the M38) that I was debating on overhauling. Glad to hear on the helicopters, jealous of the Huey time! I'm a A&P/IA as well. Worked OH-23, OH-13, HH-43, CH-54, TH-67 and currently a Life Flight Agusta AW-119Kx.
oilleaker1 wrote:
Is that a flashlight next to your grinder? Glad you have a good respirator. John
Yes John thats a Flashlight! My wife followed me out and took that picture. I found I had to have a flashlight, and an air nozzle on stand by just to see! There was approximately 1/2" deep of Bondo all along the right side covering some really nasty wannabe welds.
RICKG wrote:
Hi Jeff. I see you're from Ontario so i'm sure you're familiar with the Idaho Motor Pool.
Yes I love driving by that place Rick. Especially since they now have an M38 on top of that one container there! Would love to come to the get together, hopefully in a jeep but we'll see. Oh and sure you can stop by and talk jeeps!
Bretto wrote:
I'm guessing you don't have gray hair and that is just dust, but you may have some by the time you are done but it will be fun.
Well Bretto there is grey hair in there but I blame it on my teens! There was dust every where though, in fact my wife's cat snuck out and turned himself all grey and I chased him around the garage with an air nozzle trying to get it all off...the cat and my wife were not very impressed with that idea. _________________ Jeffrey Hale
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:10 pm Post subject:
On the thick crud, a propane torch makes short work of getting that plastic out. Just get it hot enough to soften it up and then gouge it out. Way less messy that grinding it out. Just keep the heat to minimum on the flat panels as to not heat up the metal too much.
Brett _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Joined: Jun 17, 2010 Posts: 9 Location: Ontario, Oregon
Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:09 pm Post subject:
Thanks Brett wish I would have known that earlier, I did almost all the jeep with a wire wheel on a grinder! Guess I should have started posting sooner. By the way this is my cowl battery box. You can see where someone "brazed" it shut, and you can see the bondo under where the gate hinge was that was holding the hood on.
Jeff, Is there a battery box under the welded panel? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 17, 2010 Posts: 9 Location: Ontario, Oregon
Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:50 pm Post subject:
Well the sides are there but the bottom was removed via a cutting torch. I have a lid thats in great shape, actually I tested the US Navy grey I chose from RAPCO on it. _________________ Jeffrey Hale
Jeff, quick note but I also use that "Battleship Gray" from Rapco on my A1 and I really like it. Glad to see another Navy one out there. I bought mine in Gray and may change to OD but for now i really like it. Good luck with the project! _________________ Greenville, SC
62 M38A1
Joined: Jun 17, 2010 Posts: 9 Location: Ontario, Oregon
Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:47 am Post subject:
finally gutted the front end. Even removing the saginaw steering box and incorrect steering column. Next I have welded on parts to remove, and the correct parts to replace them with. Including two Chevy engine motor mounts, home made winch mount, and three brackets that were added for the above mention steering set up. _________________ Jeffrey Hale
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Glad you have a good respirator. John
