Search found 17 matches

Thanks again. It sounds like I'll be somewhere between motor pool and driver. It sounds like using my existing engine is an option, but I'll keep an eye out for the correct block. The casting is 6410 ...

I apologize if this was asked previously, I've been searching through past posts but haven't been able to find the answer. I just picked up a semi-complete 52 M38. I'm essentially missing the importan ...

I'll post some more photos once I get everything unloaded.

I picked up my next Jeep project yesterday, 1952 M38. Frame, body, grille fenders, hood, seats, and tailgate. No suspension, axles or drive train. The frame and body is in great condition, some dings ...

I really miss driving a "real" jeep so I'm thinking I'll just keep it. I'm thinking just rebuild the drivetrain, paint the tub, replace the missings parts and save a full "every nut and bolt" restorat ...

Since I've yet to find any buyers for my M38A1, I decided to do something constructive with my spare time today. Got the tub off and pressure washed a bunch of grime off the frame. Found the rebuild t ...

Agree with others, $1500 just for labor sounds awful high. I recently rebuilt my Jeep Comanche 4cyl 2.5L motor. A little over $500 for all block work including cam grind and crank. Another $480 in pa ...

Asking $1500.

I'm really torn about either keeping or selling my M38A1 I recently picked up. We are planning on moving soon and I have two other current projects I'd like to finish. I'd feel much better selling it ...

Pulled the pan tonight. Gasket looked brand new and all the bearings had no wear. The inside of the engine looked cleaner than my 91 Comanche when I rebuilt it however the crankshaft needs machining a ...

Sorry if I missed it on the search but I didn't see any threads about. When looking for parts like seals, brakes, axle bearings, engine parts, etc...can I use the CJ3 as a parts reference? Just trying ...

Pulled the head, pretty grim. Looks like a total rebuild. Block surface and cyliner walls are pitted in a couple places and found three frozen valves, rusty as all $&%. Sad

These are nowhere near that spec, I can fit a pencil between the spring and the rocker arm. The ball end of the arm comes right out of the push rod cup.

This little 134 engine is new to me but two things are alarming. One is the push rods are loose, they move up and down about 1/4" depending on the current position of the crank. If I turn the crank cl ...

I'm kinda of leaning toward Kendall's remark. Once I mount the spare tire I probably won't be able to see it anyways...rest if of the body is fine.


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