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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:43 am Post subject: LOCKING HUBS |
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I'VE GOT A GOOD WORKING SET OF ALLSTATE (SEARS)
LOCKING HUBS. TROUBLE IS THE HOUSINGS ARE CHROME.
ANY IDEAS FOR DE-CHROMING?? _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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hillbilly21 Member
Joined: Aug 26, 2005 Posts: 510 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:44 pm Post subject: hubs |
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buffer !! |
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evanso1975 Member
Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:28 pm Post subject: LOCKING HUBS |
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There are plate stripping kits available, but not cheap! This old post on the forum should pretty much do the same job:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4714
If the chrome plating is damaged, you could try sandblasting or dipping in a caustic soda solution.
Another option would be to take the hubs to a re-chroming vendor; they should have a facility for removing chrome plating (probably hydrochloric acid).......
Rgds,
Owen. |
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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OWEN, ARE YOU SAYING THAT ELECTROLISIS WILL REMOVE CHROME?? _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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Balvar24 Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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That's how they put it on. Why not? |
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evanso1975 Member
Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: Locking Hubs |
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According to the vendors over here in the UK, the plate stripping kits are "electrolytic stripping tanks", like this one:
http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-electroplating/plate-stripping-kit.html
This one says it works on 'old & damaged plating', so I don't know how it would work with a pristine chrome finish. For the sake of knocking up a DIY electrolysis bath, I think it's worth a try. I'm guessing your hubs are steel (not aluminium), so it should work ok.......
Rgds,
Owen. |
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RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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THANKS, OWEN. THESE HUBS ARE FROM THE 1960'S AND THE
CHROME IS NOT QUITE "PRISTINE". I HAVE A DYI ELECTROLYTIC
OUTFIT MADE FROM A 5 GAL PLASTIC PAIL.. I'LL GIVE IT A TRY.. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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RimfireJim Member
Joined: Feb 28, 2011 Posts: 148 Location: Escondido, CA
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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Do you want to take the chrome off just to get a good base for painting them? Have you tried bead blasting them? I think that if the chrome is on solid, the blasted finish would be good for paint and you don't need to go down to base metal. _________________ Jim M.
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time |
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mckim Member
Joined: Jan 07, 2011 Posts: 63 Location: Idaho Falls, ID
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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I browsed around a bit and came up with some solutions others have used:
If you go the electrolytic + sodium hydroxide route, you end up creating some nasty chemicals (at least that's my understanding):
http://www.finishing.com/267/91.shtml wrote: | Please be aware that this process will leave you with a vat full of hexavalent chromium in solution -- the toxic stuff that made Erin Brokovich famous. | Even then, if your chrome has nickel underneath it, that will remain.
If you use hydrochloric (muriatic) acid, and your base material is aluminum instead of steel, you can say goodbye to that aluminum! It's a bit of a undesirable reaction in your case... Some people still suggest it in forums though! (See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Up-8cgx6P9k for a video. There's a lot of explanation, but if you just want the action, jump to 6:30.)
Washing soda electrolysis should be safe, although I'm not sure how effective. Perhaps it will get in there and loosen up any stuff under the chrome and make removal easier?
My vote would be for abrasive removal, especially since it sounds like you'll be painting them anyway. Thankfully, ours were just painted and bead blasting made quick work of the cleanup. _________________ 1952 M38 - restoration in process, 1000 miles away... |
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