Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:41 pm Post subject:
And I thought I'd been hard done to by MDJ!
Glad to hear your rear floor from LaMonte worked out; I've just ordered all the body tub parts from him that MDJ missed from my order (but still charged me for ). _________________ Owen
1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:55 pm Post subject:
Sounds like everybody gets reamed by them! Yeah, Classic has some good parts - a pleasure to work with. And mine came bare metal - didn't have to blast that crappy non-sticking gray primer off of it before paint. I wish I would have ordered the rear panel from them too, but I saved some money buying from "The Other Guy", which ended up being - you guessed it! Oh well, live and learn! I hope everything works out (better) for you.
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:24 pm Post subject:
Well it's been a while since I updated this thread, and with my water pumpsage and rant yesterday, I forgot about what I DID accomplish over my last week off (on the 'A1, that is).
I tore down the knuckles on it and replaced the felt/rubber seals, kingpin bearings and cups (driver's side only), and wheel bearing/hub seals. The first time have ever taken anything apart on a 4wd axle!
The first side (driver's side) took about 8 hrs because I had to find things around the shop that would work as bearing cup pullers/installers, and figure out the best way to go about replacing without breaking anything. The lower kingpin bearing cage was rusted through (which is why I had about 3/8" verticle movement in the knuckle), there was some sort of goo (it couldn't have been grease, could it) in the hub, and some sort of silver soap consistency substance all in the knuckle and around the axle.
The passenger's side was easy, except that the balls fell out of the Bendix joint when I moved the axle for cleaning - that was fun figuring out!
The kingpin bearings on BOTH sides looked like they were packed with a mixture of red mud and a little grease to keep it in there.
I did have to order the wheel bearing/hub seals and o rings for the locking hubs (seems Milemarker now makes the Selectro Classic hub and you can still get parts for them!). They were super nice and sent the o rings out NO CHARGE! How's that for customer service!
I got everything cleaned up in the parts washer and re-greased. I put new felt and rubber knuckle seals on and re-greased the knuckle with a mix of grease and 140w oil (I know this is a point of controversy, but it just made since to me. I greased the Bendix joint seperately. After a little trial and error on reassembly of the hubs, they were working like new. I put the tires/wheels back on and Man, it's amazing how easy this thing turns now - even with the wheels on the ground! It really is a night and day difference a little bit of GOOD grease and working bearings do!
For some reason it would keep jumping down to the end of the last paragraph when I tried to insert pictures with the paragraph they belong to, so I'll just put a few at the end!
Here's the driver's side torn down and parts ready to be cleaned.
Here's the passenger's side bell with that hard silver grease in it.
Passenger's side parts ready to be cleaned.
Cleaned and greased parts - waiting on a new wheel bearing seal.
Last edited by wilfreeman on Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:15 am; edited 1 time in total
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:59 pm Post subject:
When I rebuilt mine I just hand packed the joint and reassembled. I didn't bother filling the housing with grease or oil. I figure I'll just take them apart when it's time to grease them. _________________ '53 M38A1 X2
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:38 pm Post subject:
Yeah, it's not like these things get used daily or in extreme conditions - it's probably fine doing that, and will be easier working on it next time. Now that I have done it I'm not scared of it - doing maintenance won't be a problem now. My next big thing that I want to try to do is differentials. I see the guys doing them on Powerblock tv and it's very interesting to me, although a little intimidating.
Joined: Jan 27, 2010 Posts: 98 Location: Warner Robins, Georgia
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:26 pm Post subject:
I would not go to the trouble of replacing the brakes with a modern brake system. These jeeps are not high speed vehicles, and the stock brakes, with new linings and proper adjusment, are quite adequate for all driving. I have always been satisfied with the parts I purchase from"Oilburner", AKA John at Midwestmilitary.com
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:11 pm Post subject:
Is it difficult to keep the brakes adjusted on these things? As far as pulling to one side or the other when braking? Thats the main thing I was wanting - self adjusters, not necessarily bigger brakes, a this probably won't see a whole lot of miles. I've never really driven anything with manual adjust brakes.
"Oilburner" is John in South Dakota and "G740" is John Bizal at Midwest Military. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:55 am Post subject:
Well, it's been almost a month since my last update. I haven't gotten much done on her. I finally got my water pump problem resolved. I sold the import pump to a nice fella in Australia - I didn't lose too much money there. I returned the second pump for a full refund. I played around with one of my original pumps until I got the correct spacing - then I rebuilt the better of the two to my specs using an NOS impeller. Works great now! I worked out one of my electrical problems - with the front B.O. lights. I took her for a ride up and down my driveway yesterday and around the field a couple of times. Now I'm getting excited - it seems like the more I drive her the smoother she drives! I have figured out that it's time to get the fuel system working - the gravity feed doesn't cut it on my property (too many hills). I have suction on the fuel side of the pump, but I dont know if the worn out cam is going to let it make enough pressure. I guess I'll find out next week when I get off (weather permitting), because the family its going to
PA for 5 days, and I'll be all alone!
hat is the pump output pressure at idle and cruise RPMs with a pressure gauge T'd in the pump to carb line? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:12 pm Post subject:
Hey Wes,
I haven't even played around with trying to see if the pump is pumping fuel yet. I've just been using the gravity feed method for trials so far. I still have a couple of mods left to do on my Omix fuel tank (weld a tab in the throat to hook the fuel cap chain to, and weld some tabs in the throat for the strainer) and have to run the fuel line to the pickup. I put a disposable filter after the cutoff valve and will be using standard rubber fuel line from there to the pump. I have the steel line run up to the carb but not hooked up because of the gravity feed hookup.
I'm really hoping the weather is good next week, because the little bit of driving I did the other day has me all excited now. I can't wait to get back to work on her again.
If the cam lobe is too far gone, my plan is to use an electric pump (band aid) until I can get the valve guides replaced on my other (spare) engine. Anybody have first hand info on doing this conversion?
Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 199 Location: Escondido, CA
Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:21 pm Post subject:
wilfreeman wrote:
I did have to order the wheel bearing/hub seals and o rings for the locking hubs (seems Milemarker now makes the Selectro Classic hub and you can still get parts for them!). They were super nice and sent the o rings out NO CHARGE! How's that for customer service!
I have those hubs on my M38, and really like them. Compared to Warn and those with the center bar, they are much easier to operate. When my son rebuilt them last spring as part of our project, it didn't even occur to me to see if they were still being made, so I ordered o-rings from McMaster-Carr. We have enough left over to last multiple lifetimes.
I'm pretty happy with how they blend in semi-unobtrusively despite being very unoriginal once everything is painted OD. _________________ Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:46 pm Post subject:
Yeah, they still make them, and I agree, they are much easier to operate (especially with mud on them) than the bar type. And they are pleasing to the eye when painted od - not original, but something you can live with.
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