In researching my M38 and A1's I have come across photographs of jeeps in service that have had the master switch removed and the plate and small screws installed.
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:19 pm Post subject:
wesk wrote:
What is the serial number on the lower right dash plate?
Is there a patent plate on the front end of the right rear wheel house?
Which service is listed in the "Responsible Agency" plate (lower left in dash group). Ordnance or USMC?
SN : 62101
Wheel house patent plate is missing. I think the entire wheelhouse may even be a replacement. Lots more bondo and patch panels on this tub than I originally thought.
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:10 pm Post subject:
Got the M38 started tonight for the first time. A short test ride around the yard demonstrated that at least reverse, first, and second gear work as does high and low range. I did not attempt third as the brakes locked up before I had a chance. I'll need to tear into the brakes before doing much else but I'm pretty thrilled it at least started.
A lot of the flat head oil filters got removed when it was a popular thing to do because a certain MB book author erroneously advised everyone the filters weren't needed. I am sure Ryan will realize the need to get an oil filter back in his oil system. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:39 pm Post subject:
I removed a plow frame from this M38 so I wonder if the oil filter was sacrificed somewhere to accommodate a plow pump? That was the case when I bought my 3A. That 3A was driven by the PO for 20 yrs without any filter at all and when I dropped the oil pan it was still amazingly clean. I added a filter to the 3A and will do the same for the M38.
The military jeeps came with filters always. The civvy jeeps were optional for the filters. Also the civvy jeeps that used add-on pumps and etc that displaced the normal position for the oil filter were handled with a factory relocation kit that put the filter over on the driver's side fender. The early chain drive cam L134's needed the filter to insure adequate timing chain lube. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 4:22 pm Post subject:
All new brake components are now installed and working - everything from the MC, wheel cylinders, pads, eccentrics, brake lines, and pedal shaft. Pretty much everything except the drums and 3 out of 4 backing plates. The new found ability to stop means I can now DRIVE IT!
I took the first few rips around the neighborhood Sunday and then some more tonight. It's registered and "legal" but I might have a tough time explaining the red gas can on the bumper. I have a used tank undergoing surgery right now that will hopefully be back to me and installed this weekend.
It runs and drives surprisingly well but there are a few things that need immediate attention:
-Steering wheel has much less slop than anticipated but I have already survived a death wobble to something is amiss. From the looks of the tie rod ends it's not surprising.
-Temp gauge is still not working so I'm probably running at 240 degrees and completely oblivious.
-I replaced three shocks but the remaining one was so rotted I broke the top mount and the shock has rusted and fused to the bottom mount. It is currently held in place with a piece of old wire
-Air cleaner is still non existent. Good thing bug season is over or they'd be funneling right into the ill-tuned Solex. I have a line on one posted or sale on another site. Hopefully it shows up.
-I found a small spring on the floor that I'm pretty certain puked out of the distributor. I'll see if I can find it's proper place when I attempt to neaten up the timing.
So far I have still resisted the urge to pull the tub. I've been wire-wheeling chunks of rust away by the pound and replacing it with an equal amount of rattle can paint. I'm already a huge fan of the removable panel the M38's have for easy access to the tranny. Not sure why they never made 2A's and 3A's like that. I've already had it off a couple times and all that stuff you dread doing to a 3A for lack of access is now sitting right in plain view, begging you to rip it apart and rebuild it too.
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 8:31 am Post subject:
While a lot of people tend to militarize their civilian jeeps, it seems I am headed in the other direction. So much of the original hardware is missing from this M38 - and while it's a shame not to replace it all, this thing is such a beater that I can't justify throwing the big bucks for original gear when it is possible the frame could break in half at any minute.
The Solex carb has been discarded as it - even with a new fuel regulator - would do nothing but dump tremendous amounts of fuel into the intake manifold. Sooty plugs, horrible burning fuel smell, off it came. I ordered a rebuilt Carter 636 from scoutpilot. It hasn't even arrived yet but in seeing it in the test video he sent me I decided it looks too pretty for the M38 and will go on my 3A instead.
Today, I transplanted the existing Carter from my 3A to the M38. I've done remarkably well not scavenging parts from the 3A, tempting as it is, but I have recently decided if I need a nice new part it should go to the 3A and the hand-me-downs will go to the M38. Now, with the purchase of one part it's like I upgrade 2(!) jeeps. That's like half-price parts, right???
I have also decided it's helpful having two jeeps with the same parts so I can swap them out to help troubleshoot specific problems before blindly buying new parts. I have determined the M38's distributor is in fact junk and I stole the one from my 3A. The 3A, in turn, will get a nice new one.
Fuel tank has been cleaned, repaired, and treated with some sort of magical liner. All new fuel lines installed.
Crusty air cleaner as purchased from another forum member has been installed and is working great. I didn't even bother to paint it as it looks better "as-is".
Rotted muffler was cut off and replaced. It is currently mounted with wire coat hangers but I will improve that arrangement, maybe.
New plugs, wires, dist cap, condenser, and it really runs good now. Temp gauge is working and reads right were it should. I changed the oil again with less than an hour of run time and it was as black as oil gets - pretty gross. I'm hoping the upgrade in carburetors and just flushing the oil a couple times will clean up the engine a little bit.
Next up will have to be the steering. This rig is scary to drive as any hint of a bump sends it into the throes of a death wobble.
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 8:34 am Post subject:
Sunday I took the M38 out for its first real drive beyond the confines of the neighborhood and the first time without the red gas can strapped to the bumper. It is always a little nerve-wracking on these initial drives beyond easy walking distance to the house. I prefer to attempt such voyages only when the wife is home and available to come retrieve me from the roadside should trouble arise. She had no idea she was on call but I made sure her phone ringer was on full volume and strategically placed right next to her still sleeping head before I left the house. My on-board tool kit consisted of a couple wrenches and a AAA card. Luckily I didn't use any of it.
Steering is still a wreck but the "new" carb and distributor are just what the doctor ordered. The speedometer is pretty whacky but a handy-dandy speedometer phone app shows that I logged 28.7 miles with a top speed of 44mph. It ran great the whole time. I received a few "thumbs up" and I was photographed at least twice that I'm aware of. Doesn't seem to matter if you're driving a museum quality piece or a total wreck like this one, people just love these old jeeps. I was likely on the receiving end of a few other hand gestures too as I chuffed lazily along in Sunday shopping mall traffic but I really didn't care. Good thing the rearview mirror is long gone and the side mirrors bounce too much to make out that level of detail behind me.
It was a damp 35 degrees here over the weekend but I was surprisingly comfortable in the cab, even without a heater. Enough engine heat radiates back towards the interior that with a jacket on I was able to drive with the window open.
This Jeep was last registered in 2005 and I'm pretty sure had been sitting in the spot where I found since that year. So Sunday would be the first time in around 8 years, possibly longer, that it has really been driven for any considerable distance. It's amazing how resilient these little vehicles really are.
Nothing spectacular here but this is a video of part of the drive with a quick walk-around at the end:
Joined: Sep 30, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Glenburn, ME
Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 8:42 pm Post subject:
The Willys Garage is in full swing this winter. The M38 has been the recipient of a near-complete steering upgrade. I pulled and inspected the front axles and all is good. King pin bearings and races have been replaced. Old tie rod ends, bell crank innards, and drag link components were unceremoniously gutted and new stuff installed. The only thing I haven't done is open up the steering box. I'm hoping the death wobble problems have been chased away by the rest of the new parts but since the roads are now heavily encrusted with salt I'll need to wait until spring for another good test drive. If I still have issues I'll go in after the steering box.
Today, I pulled the TC, tranny, and bellhousing. The transmission jumps out of second gear so I know it needs help and I have some good NOS parts on the shelf for it. I'll inspect the TC and replace the seals but hopefully that's all that will need. I have a new clutch ready to go in too - might as well since I'm now staring right at it. The transmission crossmember was so rusted I needed to cut it off the frame with my angle grinder - what a mess. I'm definitely questioning my decision to pick away at these repairs vs. a full frame-off rebuild. If the frame-off hadn't been shot down by the Budget Committee it would be a no-brainer. Since I'm heavy on time and light on money, this method will have to suffice for now. It is a little discouraging putting this much work into a vehicle with a highly questionable frame and completely crumbling body. A rotbox with a rebuilt transmission and new brakes is still a rotbox.
Here's some pics of today's adventures:
Motor supported by blocks, transmission precariously balanced on the wrong kind of jack. I was unable to remove the skidplate which didn't make bottom access any easier.
Thank you again to whoever designed and implemented the M38 removable floor!!
Hello Mr. Clutch
The spoils of war-
I quickly wired brushed the heavy crud off. OD paint on everything which is a slightly encouraging indication that all these components may be the original ones....or they could be replacements from a Bubba overhaul years ago. Not sure if there is any real way to tell. At any rate, I've got enough mini-projects now to last for quite awhile.
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