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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - drag link assambly
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drag link assambly
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maltes
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Joined: Jul 15, 2008
Posts: 28
Location: Espaņa

PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 6:51 pm    Post subject: drag link assambly Reply with quote

Know someone like you by Drag Link assembly. I've disassembled and have a small problem which is the correct order of the parts. In manual (ord 1804B- pag 161) are all but tenfo doubt if you will placed before the ball.
thanks.[/url]
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two important things to remember about the drag link.

1-There is a forward end and an aft end and they are not the same meaning the link is not symmetrical.

2-The order of assembly of the socket parts at each end also differ.


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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maltes
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you so much Wesk. Combinations were many and needed to correct.
I have a little shimmy problem at low speed when there is a bump and I'm trying to fix it. Tires, springs, ball joints etc ... I hope I can fix it.
Currently this clarification helps.
thanks
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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In this country the bump induced violent left to right shimmy is called the death rattle. Most common causes are:

1-Loose king pin (pivot) bearings. Not only must these bearings be tight and in good shape, they must also be tightened to a specific spring scale setting for turning resistance.

3-Excessive play in steering system. Most common areas are the steering bellcrank both horizontal & vertical play, drag link play, gearbox play and in some rare cases collective tierod end wear/play.

4-Extremely loose wheel bearings.
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Wes K
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maltes
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Wesk. I'll check all the topics that you tell me. I hope the shimmy is resolved.
With your help and manuals sure I get it.
Thank you.
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STXM38A1
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When looking at a disassembled drag link, is there an easy/obvious way to identify which end is the forward one [connects to bellcrank ball] when ready to begin reassembly?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only one end will slant downhill to the forward with the open socket facing the pitman arm at the gear box.

If you get the link backwards the front end will try to go towards the engine instead of downhill to the bellcrank.
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Wes K
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maltes
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now the problem that I have is like putting the pieces C, D, E.
I have no place to put the ball.
Is there a method?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The whole thing is spring loaded. You do not screw the end plugs in until you have the balls in the sockets with the parts aligned in their correct order.
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Wes K
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maltes
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Wesk. Do not want to be heavy, but with parts C, D and E on the inside I can not get the ball.
How do I do? .
Is there a trick?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cannot visualize your problem. Unless you have the incorrect parts or something hidden inside they always fit well. Perhaps if you post photos of your problem parts. Do you have the correct combination of parts in the correct end of the link? If you are not sure then try the other end.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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maltes
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need help again.
I have changed all these parts and the toe-in / out checks
Alignment the steering.
New bell crank, bearings & seal
Steering rebuild with new bearings, shims, seal & gasket.
Drag link kit.
new cushions
New Steering Bellcrank Repair Kit (7/8 "Shaft)
Tie rod end new.
Inner Pinion Bearing Cone new.
Inner Pinion Bearing Cup new.
King Pin Bearing Cone Fits new.
King Pin Bearing Cup Fits new.
Steering Knuckle Seal Kit Fits new.
Replacement Front Axle Shaft U-Joint new.
Front & Rear Leaf Spring Eye Bushing Pivot new.
Four new Shock Absorber.
The problem is that at low speed to catch a bump still making me shimmy.
I have to do to fix ?.
The wheels are new and balanced.
Do any advice?
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chrisk
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Maltes,
Is the problem with the drag link solved?
If not, then first solve this for you all sorts of other things with it up! Wink
Chris
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maltes
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. the problem with the drag link solved.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The problem is that at low speed to catch a bump still making me shimmy.
I have to do to fix ?.
The wheels are new and balanced.
Do any advice?


Maltes,
As i have posted above
Quote:
Most common causes are:

1-Loose king pin (pivot) bearings. Not only must these bearings be tight and in good shape, they must also be tightened to a specific spring scale setting for turning resistance.

3-Excessive play in steering system. Most common areas are the steering bellcrank both horizontal & vertical play, drag link play, gearbox play and in some rare cases collective tierod end wear/play.

4-Extremely loose wheel bearings.


The new parts should have fixed your problem if you had them properly installed. IE: proper tension setting of the king pin (steering pivot bearings). Proper setting of wheel bearing play. Proper fit of steering bellcrank shaft kit. (many of the aftermarket kits do not fit well leaving a considerable amount of vertical play.)
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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