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Willys M Jeeps Forums


willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Help! Newly rebuilt engine/engine timing question!
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Help! Newly rebuilt engine/engine timing question!
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rb6874
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Joined: May 23, 2013
Posts: 23
Location: Florida, Lakeland

PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The good news is, I now have a spare cool and condenser, which I'm pretty happy about. Also, the radio frequency filter will never go bad, as my mechanic and I were able to build a nice eliminator thanks to the pics on this site and wilfreeman's blog. The bad news is, I still can't get more than a couple miles without losing power.

When she's cold, she gives a yellow spark, when she's hot she gives little to no spark. I admit I don't understand much about vehicle mechanics, after all, this project was intended to help me improve that knowledge. But, it really would be nice to be able drive around a little in the process.

I'm going to go study some more, but at this point I really don't know what it could be.
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Robert B.

1953 M38A1
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16267
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If she starts and runs fine but a short distance down the road she trys to quit or suffers a serious reduction in power and you have looked at all the ignition and temp related issues then try driving her without the gas cap installed.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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rb6874
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Joined: May 23, 2013
Posts: 23
Location: Florida, Lakeland

PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it is finally time to put this thread to rest... WOW!

Wes, I did check the gas tank vent valve, and driving without the gas cap, neither of which made a difference. The part that did make a difference in the end was so basic I couldn't believe it.

For whoever might read this thread in the future, I can safely say there was not "A" problem which needed corrected, but rather an entire survey of issues that needed addressed. The fact that she ran at all is impressive, considering!

Things I found through this little journey:

NO oil in air filter oil bath, improperly adjusted breaker points, timing, valves, float level, idle mixture screw, what else? I can't remember.

After all that, I replaced the inner distributor cap and now she continues to run strong when hot, and starts back up when hot. When the engine was rebuilt, several other parts were placed as a precaution, including the inner distributor cap. I found the old one, cleaned it up, but it back in the distributor, and so far so good!

I still need to replace the inner distributor parts/springs when they come in, but at least she's running strong now!

I really don't understand what could go wrong in a distributor cap when hot; it doesn't even have moving parts?
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Robert B.

1953 M38A1
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16267
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plastic distributor blocks often develop hairline cracks, especially when you allow the shaft bearings to wear too much. The shaft wobbles and the tip of the rotor will impact one of the contacts in the cap causing a small fracture. When the cap/distributor block gets warm, it expands and the cracks open up. These cracks can alter timing, create a haven for moisture or carbon which later will allow the spark to go to ground instead of the plug or to the wrong plug. They are a very often overlooked part during ignition troubleshooting.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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whydahdvr
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Joined: Jul 18, 2008
Posts: 639
Location: Melrose, MA and Santa Fe, NM

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wes, et al:
This discussion topic on distributors and timing, that will cover the M38 distributor as well as the M38-A1 right?
I had my 1952 M38 in to my guy that helped get it up and running back in 2008. He was checking on an electrical issue I couldn't find and said that it sounded like my timing was lagging.
I want to make sure of the correct procedures, etc to check things out on my jeep. I haven't done anything with the distributor since 2008.
Thanks!
-Josh
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North Shore, MA
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT

De Opresso Liber
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16267
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.

For the M38A1/M170 remember that the TM illustration of the distributor wire positions is wrong and was amended with a revision years ago. Trouble is revisions usually don't come with the manuals.

See the timing section of my photo album. I am the second member's album.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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