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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Ignition switch m38a1
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Ignition switch m38a1
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MG777
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Joined: Mar 14, 2015
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 3:12 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch m38a1 Reply with quote

Hi everyone I recently bought a m38a1, that has an original switch which is not very secure. I was thinking of installing a battery kill switch in the glove compartment...
However I would like to keep the original iginiton switch where it is, therefore if any one has suggestions on what I could do. Suggestions would be greatl appreciated. Also the glove box has no key lock only simple pulling nob. I saw an original nob with a key. Does anone know where I can an original glove box lock.

Thank you in advance,

Marc
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G740
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Joined: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 499

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 8:15 pm    Post subject: GB Lock Reply with quote

Hi,
The original glove box latch is simply a push button. NO key. The current replacements are made by the original company that made them in the day, but now, they only offer them to us keyed.

Regards
John
MWM
TM9 Ordnance Products
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16255
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, Do you stock them?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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MG777
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Joined: Mar 14, 2015
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about the ignition switch? What can i do concerning the ignition switch? I mean when I drivecand leave my car someone could get in and drive aeay since no key is needed to start the car?
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danrothe2001
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Joined: Oct 24, 2011
Posts: 48

PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not got to the point of installing it on my jeep, but I bought a toggle switch from Saturn Surplus that had Douglas connectors to plug inline on the ignition wire and conceal under the dash. No splicing required and easy to return to original configuration. There are also several threads about using a chain to lock the shifter so it can only be driven in reverse. Remember, you are not going to stop a thief. Only slow them down. I doubt anyone under 50 will know how to use the foot starter anyway.
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skyjeep50
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Joined: Feb 20, 2007
Posts: 606
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My M38A1 has a hidden keyed master electrical switch under and just behind the right front fender. The key faces downwards but is locked in place when in the on position. It can be removed in the off position. The switch can't be seen from the side of the jeep, nobody knows its there (except everyone reading this forum). It can be seen from the engine compartment but doesn't really look like anything special because the key faces downwards. The switch interrupts one of the battery cables. There are many places you can hide such a switch. When you park in a public place and want to lock it out, take the key and go.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery disconnect switch is the only reasonable and non-obtrusive way to disable the jeep for theft protection. But it will only slow a determined and experience thief down a little. Interruption switches can be jumped, chains can be cut. An often overlooked method is to install a shut off valve in the fuel supply if your original one isn't there. I would focus on enjoying your jeep and avoid an obsession with theft proofing.


Battery disconnect switch


Here you can see the original fuel shutoff valve on top of the left frame rail by the steering box.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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MG777
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Joined: Mar 14, 2015
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much for your input. This really helped me resolve the security problem on my m38a1
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acengraver
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Joined: Jan 14, 2009
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama

PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a keyed ignition switch in the glove-box of my M38A1. I can turn off the ignition and take the key with me. The original ignition switch still functions normally when the key is in the on position.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again I will say that these are stop gap methods that are easily navigated around by a thief. Interupting the power is an easy thing to get around with two jumper wires, one from the battery terminal on the starter to the coil and they are driving it away plus one from the #10 to #11 wire if they want the gauges & lights to work.

In order of level of deterrence from low to high the choices are:

1- interrupt ignition.
2- interrupt battery power.
3- interrupt fuel supply
4- lock shifter
5- club lock wheel
6- leave an armed guard.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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WillysMotors
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hidden wire shorting out the points is my normal method.
Most of mine have a knob labelled heat that needs to be pulled out for it to run. (tougher to do with the sealed distributor>)
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Madriver1968
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Joined: Nov 27, 2016
Posts: 61
Location: Rhode Island

PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howdy all,

I've been reading through older threads on installing a keyed ignition switch on an M38A1, and ultimately, I've decided to do so.

My question is this -- the prior owner of my 1954 M38A1 had installed a CJ3 style ignition switch like the one pictured below. I'd like to connect it to my new wiring harness.



In reading the tech manual, I understand that the standard M38A1 switch connects A to B, and then C to D. I also understand that Wire 11 connects A to C.

The CJ3 switch has four screws -- the center starer switch, which I will not use. The three remaining screws all have continuity to one another when the CJ3 switch is turned to the on position.

For those who are more electrically minded, any suggestions on how to connect the CJ3 switch to wires 27, 13 and 11?

Thanks all!

Bill S.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To provide you with a reasonable answer we will need more info.

1-Is your new harness a bone stock 24V early M38A1 harness with Packard metal connectors?

2-Is that switch in your photo the actual switch you are using?

3-On the back of the switch you are using each terminal will have an embossed purpose for it in the plastic right next to the terminal. Tell us what each terminal ID is. IE ACC, BAT, IGN, ST and so on.


I edited your web site generic switch photo to point out what markings I am referring to.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Madriver1968
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Wes,

Thanks for your reply and questions and willingness to help! Here's what I've got.

1. The harness is new (purchased from Pete Dabella) and is bone stock. It's got metal Douglass connectors.

2. Here's a photo of the actual switch, together with labels of the four posts.



When the switch is turned to the "on" position, I have continuity between ACC, IGN and BAT. I only have continuity to ST (between BAT and IGN) when the key is turned to the spring-loaded "starter" position (as with a modern automobile). I'm only planning on using this switch as an "on" "off" switch, so I assume I can simply ignore the ST.

Thanks so much.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This photo is from my photo sub-album "M38A1 Electrical"!!!
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album116&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php



You want to protect those terminals from shorting. Especially with all those metal Douglass shells banging around. Rubber terminal boots work quite well.



http://www.electricmotorsport.com/silicone-rubber-terminal-boot-black.html
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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