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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38 Fuel Tank
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M38 Fuel Tank

 
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djalohr
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Joined: Jul 06, 2011
Posts: 100
Location: MD/NJ

PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 7:48 am    Post subject: M38 Fuel Tank Reply with quote

I just obtained a gas tank but im not sure if it is an original or a repro. is there any really obvious way of telling? this tank has been painted a few times. I jumped on buying since it is pretty solid. I only have one picture at the moment but i can get more.

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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3440
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe Wes has a couple of photo comparisons on his photo
pages. Put it on. If everything lines up including the filler neck
and the rear bracket, and it fits under the seat with the webbing
or rubber 1/8" anti squeak under it, you've got a winner.
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
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djalohr
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Location: MD/NJ

PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks 4x4M38,
by looking at the picture, the only obvious difference is the way the neck is attached. I cant wait to get it to my jeep and see how well it fits!
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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like everything is on the exterior including the two wire
clips. I am assuming that is tape over the fuel sender opening?
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Brian
1950 M38
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djalohr
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, it is some heavy tape, the neck also had tape on it when i bought it.
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question for the board.

Are the two wire clips supposed to be tacked at both ends
or only one side?
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Brian
1950 M38
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One side.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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djalohr
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Joined: Jul 06, 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the filter off and here are the pictures of the inside if anyone is interested.



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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen much worse.
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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aforests
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Joined: Oct 06, 2014
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4x4M38 wrote:
I've seen much worse.


Yeah, I've got one of those 'much worse' ones!
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aaron,
Plenty ideas here on how to tackle a tank all the way up to cutting
out bad sheet and putting new in.

That is the worst case scenario, but unless the complete
frame is gone I believe the do census is you are better off
repairing an original versus doing what it takes to make a repop
work.
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
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TomM
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Joined: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 458
Location: Rhode Island

PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 6:09 pm    Post subject: Tank Reply with quote

I own both repro and original. A big difference is in how the outer shell joins to the front and rear panels.
On a repro if you look at the flange that overhangs the front or rear panel you can easily see the edges of the two pieces of sheet metal. Sealing is done by a continuous weld around the outside. It's all very neat and tidy.

On an original the sheetmetal pieces are folded over each other tightly and then soldered. You cannot see the sheetmetal edge of either the outer shell or the front or rear panel. The soldering is not a precision operation. There are occasional blobs.

Also on an original the filler neck flange is soldered to the tank. Yours has a similar flange as original on the filler neck. My repro tank filler neck does not have a flange. It's just soldered directly to the tank.

Your tank will clean up well. Some of my 5gal cans have been cleaned with a long soak of Apple cider vinegar. You will want to check vinegar compatibility with the tin coated steel though.
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aforests
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My tank is mainly rusted through on the bottom (all over) and the one seam on the bottom side.




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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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45auto
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Joined: Apr 06, 2005
Posts: 147
Location: Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a very repairable fuel tank.
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Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
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