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coolpool Member
Joined: Dec 02, 2015 Posts: 59 Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:45 am Post subject: Preventative Maintenance Fluids |
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I looked around but seem to see conflicting ideas on which fluids/lubricants work with these old machines.
Engine oil: The Millwrights at work say I need to run an oil with zinc in it to protect the camshaft? I normally run Castrol 10w30 in evrything I own; not good enough?
Front/rear diff, tranny/t-case: 80w90 Hypoid gear oil fine?
Brake fluid: DOT3 OK?
Front Steering Knuckles: There are large fill/check plugs in the backside of the knuckles. The lube chart states to fill with grease to level. Any axle grease suffice?
Any advice given is much appreciated, thanks! _________________ Pete Phillips
1952 M38 Cdn W/Winch 52-31658
1953 M100 Cdn 53-71069
MVPA #36514 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16265 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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If you have searched this web site for all the opinions on this topic then you have all the opinions. Yes they often disagree with each other but that is the nature of opinions. It is now up to you to determine in your own way which opinions seem most correct to you and run with those choices. What you have asked for here is another set of opinions from which you will still have to choose from.
Make sure you start at the same starting point in each of your opinion reviews: The manufacturer's recommendations! Only deviate from then when you have solid and factual documentation that justifies your deviation from the manufacturer's recommendations.
So to get your opinion pole going again here is my opinion which I have stated on at least 20 to 30 previous posts here.
Quote: | Engine oil: The Millwrights at work say I need to run an oil with zinc in it to protect the camshaft? I normally run Castrol 10w30 in everything I own; not good enough?
Use the manufacturer's recommended weight for the season. Choose an oil rated for engines built before 1960.
Front/rear diff, tranny/t-case: 80w90 Hypoid gear oil fine?
Hypoid (high pressure) gear oils were developed for rear axle drives not transmissions and transfer cases. Their high sulphur will cause rapid corrosion and failure of synchronizer rings in the tranny and any other non-ferrous metals in the tranny & transfer. Yes you will hear a wide spread of opinions here but remember the opinion of the salesman is based on selling his product. Stay with hard science and confirmed data.
Again stay with the original manufacturer's weight recommendations.
Brake fluid: DOT3 OK?
Only if your system doesn't already have DOT 5 in it. The military converted to DOT 5 (political result not based on sound scientific evidence that DOT 5 was any better for GI trucks than DOT 3) around 1960. Use the google function to hunt all the 100's of opinions on DOT 3 vs DOT 5 then using only the data supported with scientific study make your own choice.
Front Steering Knuckles: There are large fill/check plugs in the backside of the knuckles. The lube chart states to fill with grease to level. Any axle grease suffice?
I guess you could call those 1/2" P plugs large. The problem with closed steering knuckles is they rely on a smooth knuckle surface and a good seal to keep whatever you put in there inside and not on the floor. The other problem is the pre 1955 service manuals both civvy and military specify #2 chassis lube and they also specify dis-assembly, cleaning and hand packing on a rather short termed periodic schedule. Any attempt to switch to a liquid will result in leakage on the floor with anything but perfect seals and perfect sealing surfaces. The strong desire by many to try concoctions with a liquid base are caused by the behavior of the steering knuckles in very cold conditions. When outside temps drop to 20 or below you must drive the jeep slowly until the #2 chassis lube softens as heat builds up or you will quickly run into issues with the king pin bearings (steering pivot bearings) failure. Liquid based lubes will not be slung up into these pivot bearings so hand greasing of them each 6,000 miles is still needed.
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_________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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coolpool Member
Joined: Dec 02, 2015 Posts: 59 Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Wes!
Engine Oil - Straight 30W, check
Frt and Rear diff - 80/90 Hypoid, check
I'm trying to sourse a suitable GL-1 and have found reference to NAPA GL-1, Valvoline GL-1, Chevron Gear Oil GL-1 and 76 Lubricants Gear Lube 90. Working on it.
I talked to the previous owner and found out there is DOT 3 in it, check.
Well on my way to getting my PM schedule sorted! _________________ Pete Phillips
1952 M38 Cdn W/Winch 52-31658
1953 M100 Cdn 53-71069
MVPA #36514 |
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MTM38A1 Member
Joined: Dec 09, 2015 Posts: 15 Location: Great Falls, Montana
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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If you can,t get your hands on gl-1 go to an ag equip dealer shop and ask for their old style corn oil tranny and gear box lube. I really never cared for gl anything in manual trannies. It,s overkill and seldom comes in an appropriate weight. I prefer 60 weight auto racing oil for my old gear boxes. |
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coolpool Member
Joined: Dec 02, 2015 Posts: 59 Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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MTM38A1 wrote: | If you can,t get your hands on gl-1 go to an ag equip dealer shop and ask for their old style corn oil tranny and gear box lube. I really never cared for gl anything in manual trannies. It,s overkill and seldom comes in an appropriate weight. I prefer 60 weight auto racing oil for my old gear boxes. |
Thanks for the info. I have some local suppliers gathering some prices on GL-1. If they are out to lunch for costs I'll chase the tractor supply route. _________________ Pete Phillips
1952 M38 Cdn W/Winch 52-31658
1953 M100 Cdn 53-71069
MVPA #36514 |
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cabinfever Member
Joined: May 14, 2013 Posts: 201 Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota
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Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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In regards to engine oil, I have had a hard time finding a product specifically made for older model engines. So, what I do is use Rotella 15W-40 and add a ZDDP (zinc phosphate) additive which increases the zinc concentration to what was found in early engine oils. There are many ZDDP additives available. I use ZDDPlus. _________________ Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388
Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association |
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Hawkshadow Member
Joined: Oct 10, 2012 Posts: 310 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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I see you're in Canada. Check out the standard 30W heavy equipment oil from Canadian Tire. It states higher zinc levels for the heavy equipment. I and several others haven't had any issues with it, and it's much easier to come by. _________________ Jordan
M38 CDN
52-30718 |
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skyjeep50 Member
Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 8:51 am Post subject: |
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As WesK said - lots of opinions on this topic. I also use Shell Rotella oil in the engine, both straight 30W and 15-40W. Since I drive in cooler weather sometimes, 15-40W is what I have in right now. GL-4 is what I use in the transmission, much better choice than GL-1 or you can use 50W racing motor oil. Diffs get hypoid GL-5. Steering knuckles - John Deere 0 grade corn head grease which is a soft grease that tends to flow better than #2. This is similar to the recommendation in the early civvy Jeep manual that I have. Personally, I think the military chose #2 grease as a specification because they could rely on frequent maintenance intervals and not have to stock a special grease just for steering systems. _________________ 1951 M38 |
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coolpool Member
Joined: Dec 02, 2015 Posts: 59 Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:29 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for everyones tips. Aren't noobs a PITA! I just purchased Castrol SAE-30 non detergent oil and a bottle of Lucas Zinc Plus. Pricey, but for the amount of oil changes this will see it's a moot point. Hawk I did cruise through crappy tire looking for an alternative to 10w30. I should have read those pails better. I'm, going to look into the John Deere product for the knuckles. Skyjeep are you sure about the GL-4 being better suited to Gl-1? Everything I've read states that the GL-4 & 5 aren't compatible with yellow metals and the GL-1 is. Not trying to start a peeing match _________________ Pete Phillips
1952 M38 Cdn W/Winch 52-31658
1953 M100 Cdn 53-71069
MVPA #36514 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16265 Location: Wisconsin
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skyjeep50 Member
Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 8:00 am Post subject: |
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GL-4 is what has been recommended on this website in the past. It is compatible with yellow metals and offers much better lubrication than GL-1. As mentioned, you can do some additional research including using the "search" function in this website. Here are a couple of starters: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf _________________ 1951 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16265 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 11:46 am Post subject: |
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This is where opinions often become argumentative and the scientific exchange of info becomes entangled in emotional postings and the topic then becomes confused.
1-Wiki's are by nature opinion pools since they are written by whomever wishes to contribute to their topic. They do often offer good reference sites where scientifically supported data can be found. But i would suggest sticking to sites that are unbiased such as the API or SAE and other independent testing organizations.
2-This is an outstanding report but you must read it carefully. It says 5 is bad for yellow metals but it does not say 4 is best for yellows metals. It says 4 is better for yellow metals since less yellow metal is lost when using it then in trannies using 5. This is called a compromise. This leaves GL-1 & GL-3 as the best choice. (GL-2 is specific to worm gears). This leaves the availability issue. GL-1 & GL-3 are not discontinued in production. They are simply service designations for which there is no official mechanical testing available for them so only original existing formulations can be determined still qualified under these older specs. Yes GL-1 & GL-3 are much more difficult to find today but they are out there and the are clearly the better choice for older trannies with yellow metal parts. Note that this report also states clearly that quality engine oils also qualify under the GL-1 & GL-3 ratings. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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coolpool Member
Joined: Dec 02, 2015 Posts: 59 Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 2:44 pm Post subject: GL-1, 90W Gear Oil- Success! |
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I managed to source and buy a 15 litre pail of Chevron GL-1, 90W for $90 Cdn. It was the smallest increment available . It took almost a month to come in but may be quicker if you live in, or near a larger centre. I have the data sheets on this product if anyone is interested. _________________ Pete Phillips
1952 M38 Cdn W/Winch 52-31658
1953 M100 Cdn 53-71069
MVPA #36514 |
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Hawkshadow Member
Joined: Oct 10, 2012 Posts: 310 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:05 am Post subject: |
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Coolpool where did you source the GL1 from?
I stopped in at my local NAPA this morning and the guy behind the desk had no idea what I was talking about. He want back, brought out a bottle of GL 5 and promptly proclaimed that it is the only NAPA gear oil that they sell…
Has anyone had any luck bringing in GL 1 or 3 through NAPA? _________________ Jordan
M38 CDN
52-30718 |
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coolpool Member
Joined: Dec 02, 2015 Posts: 59 Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:09 am Post subject: |
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I oredered it through King's Husky in Lloydminster. They're a bulk fuel and lubricant dealer. I would search for a Chevron dealer near you which should be painless. A local machineshop also sourced some out for $15 more; obvoiusly, I went with the cheaper option. Wish I could mail some of this to you as I'm not going to need 15L? I'm sure Canada Post wouldn't be happy . _________________ Pete Phillips
1952 M38 Cdn W/Winch 52-31658
1953 M100 Cdn 53-71069
MVPA #36514 |
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