There is quite a bit of interesting and informative reading on the Steel Soldiers MV site regarding using locally available exterior house paint as a top coat, and the Rustoleum RM Primer, or Valspar Farm Machinery Red Oxide Primer, and some other primers are mentioned. Lots of info and paint formulas for getting a specific color and sheen. These guys are mostly painting MV's bigger than Jeeps.
The folks at SSMV sited as some of their reasons: no shipping or hasmat fees; locally available in case a little more is needed or the color needs tweaking; durability when fully cured; supposedly sprays well through cheap HF spray guns, water is the appropriate solvent.
Cons: Still needs a very good oil base primer; takes quite a while to cure and toughen-up; sometimes requires creativity and persistence to "train" big box paint dept. personnel to get exactly what you want; the best paint isn't cheaper than the good oil based MV paint (sans the fees).
Don't know when or if I'll throw paint at my project. I am curious enough after reading through the posts that I'll probable try painting some parts initially with one of the recommended house paints to see what the results look like.
I am not an automotive painter but a friend recommended using the Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer on small parts when you do not want to get out the paint gun. I have used these spray cans to paint small parts and followed up with Rapco 23070 spray cans and in my opinion it looks great. There is a lot of preparation involved but I am pleased so far. I will pick up some Rapco primer this weekend but I have not used any yet.
Wes has some great post about how close the 23070 is to the original color if you are interested in that but I choose to stay with that color as I will have spray cans that I can use for touch up when necessary.
Hope this helps.
Best of luck with your project. _________________ 1952 M38 3/52
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3065 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:22 am Post subject:
I have been using rattle can self etching primer for several years now on railroad projects.
I have had very good results on even aluminum with good preparation.
Especially with aluminum, it helps to scuff up the finish a bit to give the primer something to grab onto. You don't have to crater the finish, just rough it up a bit with some fairly light grit paper or sanding pads. Clean with mineral spirits or similar, and do NOT touch with your skin before spraying the primer on.
It dries fairly quickly, has a bit of a filler effect, so can be sanded, then repainted.
I usually apply a light tack coat that may not cover, let that dry, then put on the finish coat covering everything, then let it dry overnight.
I am using this stuff right now on my suspension rebuild and other small parts.
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1072 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 9:12 am Post subject:
I am now working on my 3rd HMV. The first was my 1954 M38a1. I sand blasted it to bare metal, sprayed etching primer, automotive primer and painted in a paint booth with GCI 24087 from Rapco. Turned out great with no problems.
The second was a custom "bobbed" M35a2. Same scenario - blasted, etching primer, auto primer, GCI desert tan (forget the #) from Rapco painted in the bay at the body shop.
The one I'm working on now - 1964 USMC M38a1 is going to be sanded down to original paint, body work done and painted with Behr Marquee 24052 semigloss. I have already painted some parts (gas tank, hubs and drums and the driver compartment/gas tank well) with 2 coats of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and 2 coats of Behr thinned with H2O. The primer dries quickly and the Behr does also (if it is warm outside). I was able to handle the parts within an hour, although as I have read, it can take months for full curing. I am very pleased with the quality of the finish sprayed with my cheap HF gun! I was able to get in and drive it around the day after I painted and my boots have yet to rub the paint off of the floor!
I am undecided as to whether I will be using the GCI or Behr for the exterior of the Jeep, but am leaning more toward the Behr with everything I spray. I will be spraying the rest of the interior and engine compartment soon and will be spraying the underbody and frame with it also. _________________ Matt
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1072 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:19 pm Post subject:
I tried to buy it from the same Home Depot a few years ago, but they couldn't find the code. The assistant manager that was working this time I tried went straight to the correct screen and found the "competitors number", which is the FSS paint code 24052. He mixed it according to the FSS paint code formula.
I don't really have anything USMC to compare the color to, but it is definitely semi gloss and forest green. I think getting the semigloss right was EASIER than with the enamel. With enamel, I was mixing Naphtha as the thinner - any difference in the ratio presented you with a different gloss. So on my other Jeep (sprayed in GCI 24087), I have a couple of different sheens. I put 2 heavy coats of the Behr on my gas tank in 55 deg weather - I thought I had screwed up. After a couple of hours it was still glossy and wet. After another 1.5hrs it was dry enough to move inside. The next morning it was dry (40deg night) and I installed it in the Jeep! The gloss was also gone.
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