Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Wed May 31, 2017 7:30 pm Post subject: 24 volt solid state voltage regulator
I started off with a new rebuilt generator from Midwest and a solid state voltage reg form Midwest. At some point it quit charging. So tested the gen and it put out~ 24 - 32 volts. Bought another cable between the gen and volt reg cause I wasn't sure of the condition of the old one. I still wasn't getting power to my batt. I then went to the 24 volt alternator that came with the jeep and never looked back. Well here we are 2 years later and the Alternator went out, and I'm wondering if I should rebuild the alt. or buy another solid state volt reg.
In short, what is the track record of the solid state volt reg? Right now I could go either way. Thoughts? Advice?
Thanks _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
new rebuilt generator from Midwest and a solid state voltage reg
These would go together The 24 V 25A generator and the 24V 25 Amp transistorized Voltage Regulator.
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24 volt alternator
There were two common 24 V Alternators that found their way into M series trucks in the 60's / 70's. 60 Amp with internal regulator and the 100 amp system with a separate regulator and rectifier. Neither of these will work with that old 24V 25 A generator voltage regulator you got from Midwest.
So I must assume you mean you kept the old 24V 25 Amp generator and the suspected to be bad 24V 25A transistorized regulator and are asking if it would be wise to buy a second 24V 25A transistorized regulator and give them another shot.
We do not have any statistics on the life of the 24V 25A transistorized regulator. I am sure you will hear both praise and condemnation here depending on how our members faired with it in service. I never cared for them myself. There are no spare parts support for them nor are there any manuals for them. The Army bought them lock, stock & barrel on the basic throw away principal.
There are manual and parts support still for the 24V 25A generator, 24V 25A mechanical regulator, 24V 60 amp alternator with built in regulator and the the 24V 100A system alt/reg/rectifier.
I have had my best luck all these years since the late 70's with the 24V 60 amp military alternator with built in regulator. If this is what you were running I would stick with it. You can get them rebuilt at most civilian auto-electric rebuilders. Some may need a copy of the manuals which are still out there.
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 8:55 am Post subject:
Yes sir........ (So I must assume you mean you kept the old 24V 25 Amp generator and the suspected to be bad 24V 25A transistorized regulator and are asking if it would be wise to buy a second 24V 25A transistorized regulator and give them another shot.) That's what I meant to say. I didn't know they had came out with the different types of charging systems. My Alternator says Ace Electric on the back, that's all I could find. So I will have my 24 volt Alternator rebuilt.
Thank you _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Do you have a photo of your alternator? The military alternators 60A & 100A were about the same size and weight as the old stock 25A generators. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
That's a smaller civvy type alternator. You couldn't find any numbers on the case? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 9:26 pm Post subject:
No, all I found was "Ace Electric". I've taken it to the shop. He's going to see if it would be better to buy a new one or rebuild that one. There're some elongated holes I have questioned. _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
For my 24V drivers I used rebuilt 24 V one wire Delcos 10SI's. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:51 am Post subject: Re: 24 volt solid state voltage regulator
Bobber wrote:
In short, what is the track record of the solid state volt reg?
Keep in mind that OE mechanical regs are adjustable and repairable
If you toast a SS reg what you've got is just that, toast.. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 1:06 pm Post subject: M38 Batteries / Voltage Regulator
I have been scouring all of the downloads and manuals to determine the rated CCA of the original batteries. I believe mine need replaced due to slow cranking, different kinds, and being over 2 years old. Was told I need 800 CCA for each battery and that seemed excessive. What do ya'll carry?
Found 2 gauges not working possibly due to voltage regulator allowing 34 volts. Recommend any certain gauges? Have found used for $25, NOS for $125, and reproductions for $65 from Beachwood and DeBelas.
Did I understand from above thread that my solid state voltage regulator is not worth fixing? Ya'll are recommending an alternator instead correct? Any advice on where is best to purchase one?
If your system voltage is holding at 22 to 23 during cranking and the engine turns slow you should be looking at bad grounds 0r worn out starter or corroded/heat damaged contacts in starter kick switch..
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Found 2 gauges not working possibly due to voltage regulator allowing 34 volts.
Make sure you resolve the voltage regulator issue before connecting your new gauges. Do yourself a big favor and install a volt meter instead of the stock amp meter. The volt meter will still let you see if the old girl is charging but more importantly it will warn you when you start getting up to 32 V's so you can decide to shut her down in time.
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Recommend any certain gauges?
I will assume two of the three weakest, Water temp, oil press or fuel quantity failed. Be carefull which you buy. Use the military gauge troubleshooting guide before you buy to determine weather the issue is gauge or sender. Then when you do buy make sure the sender/gauge match each other.
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that my solid state voltage regulator is not worth fixing
No, you misunderstood. What I said above was there are no replacement parts nor manuals to facilitate repair of your transistorized regulator. Therefore as a non-repairable military item they were simply tossed in the trash when they failed and a new one was installed. But the military got away with that mentality because they had the bottomless taxpayer's pockets.
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Ya'll are recommending an alternator instead correct?
I recommend an inexpensive, modern, lightweight civilian alternator in place of the dinosoar antique 24V 25A DC Generator /regulator combo which is way too heavy. If you are a factory class resto then you'll just have to suffer with the antique boat anchor. The military issue 24V 60A and 24V 100A alternators are very expensive but at least look contemporary.
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Any advice on where is best to purchase one?
That would depend on which device you shop for, where you live and what your resto goals are. The civvy 24 V 40 to 80A units can be had right at your local auto-electric shop. They'll happily convert one of the old 10 or 12 series delco one wires to 24V for you and most likely at under $100. The military stuff is best to shop the internet thoroughly. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Data sheet gives amp hours, but is that the same as cold cranking amps batteries are rated at today? I was told to get 800 cca rated batteries.....what do you run?
Like the alternator route and found your installation photos..... where did you get the blue brackets to install the alternator?
Did use the gauge troubleshooting sheet you provided to isolate gauge being problem. The replacements I mentioned all have Douglas connectors and are 24 volt. Anything else I need to know for compatibility with sending units?
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:54 am Post subject:
I don't know if you have an M38 or an A1. Be aware early M38'came
with theee gauges with external resistors. They are easy to tell from the
later internal resistor gauges as they have an L-shaped attachment that went
on the back of the gauges that held the resistor.
The Ord 9 shows a different sender for at least the temperature gauge.
not sure why. Just make sure you replace what you have with an identical
unit and you should be fine.
Later changes to both jeeps were to replace the 120 lb pressure
gauges with 60 lb units. The senders must match the 120 or
60 lb gauge.
Data sheet gives amp hours, but is that the same as cold cranking amps batteries are rated at today? I was told to get 800 cca rated batteries.....what do you run?
NO!
The amp hour system is the old system and the CCA is the newer system for rating batteries. Just google "Battery rating methods" and read up on the topic.
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where did you get the blue brackets to install the alternator?
That is a commercially available mount adapter from the jeep parts dealer in Yuma AZ. I just fabricated what I needed on the ones I installed.
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compatibility with sending units?
What Brian mentioned above is just one item of compatibility. You must learn to use the military parts manuals, ORD 9 SNL G-740 & G-758. There are several subtle differences in gauges vs their applicable senders. Just read the warnings and notes in the supply manuals. IE Gauge XXXXX use only with Sender XXXXX. Gauge XXXXX is used only with Cluster XXXXX. In the second case when you look at Cluster XXXXX you'll see it says "This cluster used on MDXXXXX thru MDXXXXX or MDXXXX and on or up to MDXXXXX.
Always try to tell us in each of your posts what model jeep we are discussing and weather it is stock or modified. So we can all be on the same page! An easy way to do this is to add the year/make/model of your jeep to your automated signature block in your profile. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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