1 quart in 400 miles is not all that bad so long as the plugs are not fowling and there aren't large puddles. I would re-verify those fording valves are actually fully open. With the F134 the intakes will feed oil past the guides readily.
I would assume that a strict and frequent operation schedule was not used to insure a proper seating of the rings. Considering a good break-in happens between 500 & 800 miles the first year of the rebuild I would guess that 1200 total miles in 5 years since the overhaul did not result in a good seating of the rings.
A compression check and leak-down check is very recommended here. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
As per my 1st post, last question, the jeep runs at 180-185F (all summer) even though I replaced the leaky water pump and had the rad flushed & cleaned....is 180-185F normal operating temperature?
Some printed references with the answer to that question are in the TM 9-8012 page 25, 29, 86, & 141/142.
As for the oil consumption see pages 77.
Before launching a troubleshooting spree on the temp indication I would suggest first verify the accuracy of the gauge/sender.
simple start is to immerse the sender in a pan of water with wire # 33 still attached. Suspend the sender in the water so it does not touch the sides and bottom of the pot. Add a ground wire from the senders body to the engine block. Now you can do a detailed check by adding an accurate thermometer to the same pot. Slowly heat the water with a propane torch while you observe the thermometer reading and have a helper sit in the jeep with the master switch on and have this helper announce the reading of the gauge every 5 degrees while you monitor and compare that reading to the thermometer. Or you can just wait for the water to boil and check that the gauge reads 212 degrees.
If these test results indicate a gauge error then proceed to the Instrument Troubleshooting service bulletin TB 9-2300-228-20.
All of these TM's and TB's if you do not have them are available free in PDF format right here on this web site's "Downloads Page".
Quote:
I was told that the jeep sat for 2-3 years as the rebuilder was trying to sell it. It was first sold in 2015 and that person put 600 miles on it to early 2017....that is who I bought it from in July of this year but he gave me all the rebuilders pics and contact info...I have put on 600 miles and have consumed about 1.5 quarts of oil. From what I have assumed from the character of the person I bought it from maintenance was not his priority.
This poor treatment of the jeep explains your oil consumption. I doubt very seriously that a proper seating of your rings ever happened under this set of circumstances. Follow the suggestions above. I would not be surprised if you had to re-hone your bores and run a correct break-in regimen. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Did I say "Acceptable" ???? The best way to understand is read the entire thought! _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 971 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:28 pm Post subject:
A compression test is the first thing to check. If your compression rings are broken or too large a end gap, the oil can be literally pushed out of the crankcase, or recirculated into the combustion chamber and not show smoke. Been down this road. Since it's not smoking out the exhaust, I would think the rings are seated, but you may have blow by. John
Don't overlook your thermostat---Since there is some question of the quality and/or depth of work done, it wouldn't be a bad ideal to check it. If your engine has a 180 degree thermostat--it would run round 180-185. Its not so hard to check, you will need to drain the water level below the head--remove the three bolts holding the water hose neck to the head and it will be sitting in the head. There will be a number stamped on it indicating what degree range it is. If it looks like it has been in there awhile, go ahead and replace it with a quality made thermostat. you will have your choice of 160, 180 or 190 degree range. if you want it run cooler, go with the 160 degree thermostat. Also, you will most likely need a new gasket. Both the thermostat and gasket should be available at your local auto parts store. _________________ Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
Have you read the written technical references I referred you to yet? They will make it clear what is normal and what is not.
Thermostats are tested in a pot of heated water while observing their opening and closing points as well as their full open points. A 160 degree thermostat should start opening between 148 & 155 degrees and be fully opened by 160 degrees just as a 180 degree thermostat should start to open 158 to 175 degrees an be fully open at 180 degrees.
During hot months or when the engine is being worked unusually hard at low speeds the radiator can reach a point where it can't maintain the temp below the top limit. Under those conditions a + 10 degrees or more would not be uncommon. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
And is your temp gauge dead nuts on? Download the free manuals and see how your tests measure up. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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